1882.] 



THE AMERICAN GARDEN. 



131 



silken cocoon. In about three weeks the 

 moth or perfect insect comes out. It is 

 generally thought by entomologists that the 

 insect passes the winter in the moth state, 

 probably finding a hiding-place and shelter 

 among rubbish, etc. 



From the habits of this pest it can be seen 

 that any remedy used must be directed 

 toward the destruction of the mature insect 

 or moth. Nothing can be put on the ear of 

 Corn,— that will kill the " worm,"— that would 

 not endanger the Corn for table use. In 

 fact, the presence of a " worm " is not known 

 until so much mischief is done as to render 

 the ear worthless. 



The moths can be destroyed by means of 

 lamps or lanterns placed where the insects 

 can beat their own destruction, or arranged 

 over dishes of oil or water into which they 

 may fall and be drowned. A "light-trap" 

 may be constructed as follows : An ordinary 

 lamp is fastened in the center of a shallow 

 pan by three clamps, so that the wind will 

 not blow it over. A tin " shade " or reflect- 

 or is provided, with a circular piece raised 

 above the chimney-hole in the "shade" to 

 go over the chimney, resembling a venti- 

 lator; this keeps the rain from falling into 

 the chimney. The reflector stands in the 

 way of the upward flight of the insects, 

 causing them to fall back into the dish 

 below, which should contain an inch of water, 

 with a thin film of kerosene on top. The 

 reflection of the light from the surface of 

 the oil will attract many insects directly into 

 the liquid. Another form of trap is a lamp, 

 without a chimney, set in a pan. A reflector, 

 similar in form to the one just described, 

 with a " ventilator," is held above the lamp 

 by means of iron strips fastened to the 

 " shade " and the sides of the pan. 



Such a "lamp-trap" will catch various 

 kinds of night-flyers, and while many are 

 injurious ones, others may be beneficial. It 

 is therefore something of a problem how far 

 a general insect destroyer should be used. 



Dr. Byron I). Halsted. 



SPINACH. 



To obtain a. profitable as well 

 as a satisfactory crop of either 

 summer or winter Spinach, it is 

 absolutely necessary to give con- 

 siderable attention to the proper 

 preparation of the soil ; for al- 

 though Spinach is a vegetable 

 that requires but little skill for 

 its cultivation, yet large, thick, 

 and succulent leaves, such as 

 should be obtained by all who 

 possess a garden, cannot be pro- 

 duced without the exercise of 

 some care in the proper prepara- 

 tion of the soil. For the late fall 

 and winter crop, a well drained 

 and sheltered situation should be 

 chosen, and if possible a light 

 sandy soil. This latter, however, 

 is not of material importance, 

 provided the situation be shel- 

 tered and the soil well drained. 



In order to produce thick, succulent 

 leaves, a rich and deep soil is essential. 

 This can be obtained by either digging or 

 plowing the ground as deeply as possible, 

 and at the same time working in an abun- 

 dance of well-rotted stable manure. With 

 either the rake or harrow, level the ground as 



neatly as possible. The seeds should be 

 sown in drills, from one and a half to two 

 and a half feet apart. The sowing is best 

 done just before a rain, if possible, but unless 

 the ground is absolutely dry, a quick ger- 

 mination of the seed can be obtained by 

 proper firming of the soil. This firming 

 may be readily accomplished by pressing 

 down with the feet every inch of soil in the 

 drill. 



As soon as the plants become strong 

 enough to handle, they require to be well 



RUSSELS SPROUTS. 



thinned, so that they stand about three 

 inches apart. In about two weeks every 

 other plant should be removed, so as to leave 

 the plants six inches apart in the row. The 

 ground should be well worked with the hoe, 

 and thus kept free from weeds at all times. 

 When cold weather sets in, a slight covering 

 of straw or salt hay should be given. This 

 covering should be removed about the 1st 

 of April, a sprinkling of guano applied, and 

 a good hoeing given. 



For fall use, Spinach should be sown about 

 the 10th of August, and for the winter and 

 early spring crop, from the 1st to the 10th 

 of September. For the late spring and 

 early summer crop, the seed should be sown 

 as early in spring as possihle, and if Spinach 

 is desired throughout the summer it should 



be sown every two weeks, in order to main- 

 tain a succession, but as the summer sow- 

 ings soon run to seed, severe thinning is not 

 necessary : the plants may be permitted to 

 stand three inches apart. 



Of late, considerable attention has been 

 given to the improvement of Spinach, result- 

 ing in the introduction of several improved 

 varieties. For fall sowing, however, the 

 Prickly Seeded is mostly employed. It has 

 triangular, arrow-shaped leaves, and is con- 

 sidered the hardiest variety ; but the Savoy 

 Lea red is far superior in every respect, and 

 is the best for amateurs. With me it has 

 proved to be as hardy as the prickly seeded. 



For spring and summer sowings the round 

 seeded varieties are to be preferred. Hound- 

 Leaved, with thick, fleshy leaves, and the 

 Extra Large Bound-Leaved Viroflay, with its 

 broad, round, thick, and dark green leaves, 

 are the two most desirable varieties. I 

 tested six varieties of Spinach this spring, 

 and the last-named remained in condition 

 for use longer than "any other kind, and was 

 the last to run to seed. 



Charles E. Parnell. 



BRUSSELS SPROUTS, 



This delicious vegetable, which may be 

 found in our city markets all winter, is not 

 in as general use as it deserves. It belongs 

 to the Cabbage tribe, and is distinguished 

 from its other members by, instead of form- 

 ing one central head, throwing up a stem two 

 to three feet high, around which grow close 

 together a large number of bud-like heads. 

 These diminutive heads — called Rose-Cab- 

 bage by the Germans — are used and pre- 

 pared similar to other Cabbage, but they are 

 far more tender and delicate than the best 

 of Savoys even. 



Its cultivation is simple, differing but little 

 from that of late Cabbage or Cauliflower. 

 The plant is nearly hardy, and will not be 

 injured by light frosts. 



BORECOLE. 



Kale, or Borecole, is another 

 winter vegetable of the Cabbage 

 family, which is so hardy that 

 it may be left out all winter with- 

 out injury ; in fact, it should be 

 exposed to severe frost before it 

 becomes fit for use. 



The variety known near New 

 York as Sprouts, or Dwarf Greens, 

 is sown thinly in September in 

 drills twelve to fifteen inches 

 apart. The soil must lie rich, 

 deep, and light, and entirely free 

 from stagnant water, else the 

 plants will not winter well. When 

 the plants are two inches high, 

 they are thinned out to about six 

 inches, hoed, and kept cleanly 

 cultivated until the leaves, which 

 afterward cover the entire sur- 

 face, interfere. A light covering 

 during the severest part of win- 

 ter is beneficial. The Sprouts are fit for use 

 in early spring, and take the place of Spinach 

 when the latter is scarce. 



Curled Scotch and Dwarf Purple are sown 

 in open ground in May, transplanted in July, 

 and treated in the same manner as late Cab- 

 bage. They do not need winter protection. 



