THE AMERICAN GARDEN. 



[May, 



ARRANGEMENT OF EVERGREENS, 



It seems somewhat surprising that the 

 great advance in horticultural knowledge, 

 as well as the improvement in rural taste, 

 should not ere this have lead to a more 

 judicious employment of Evergreens than is 

 generally apparent; The serious mistakes 

 of our fathers, and their failure to realize 

 the most common features of Evergreen 

 growth and needs, have resulted more in a 

 feeling of disgust toward the whole conifer- 

 ous family than in a disposition to try 

 again, with a view of avoiding the errors of 

 the past. The rapid growth, thickly massed 

 branches, and persistent foliage of Ever- 

 green trees should have taught that close to 

 the parlor windows and the front walk was 

 not the place for the larger species of coni- 

 fers ; hut they obviously failed to teach the 

 lesson, the consequences of which failure 

 are to be seen in the miserably trimmed-up 

 specimens to be seen about so many dwell- 

 ings. 



Frank J. Scott, in his valuable work on 

 the "Art of Beautifying Suburban Home 

 Grounds," says that " One of the most strik- 

 ing beauties of Evergreens is the manner in 

 which their branches bear great burdens of 

 snow and bend under them. The softly 

 rounded drooping masses of light on the 

 outer boughs, relieved by dark recesses in 

 the foliage, make every tree, at such a time, 

 a study for a picture." He might have added 

 that this beauty was only seen in its highest 

 perfection where the lower branches rest 

 upon the lawn. Upon this fact, and the 

 other one, — that Evergreens hide what is 

 beyond, — is found the key-note of Ever- 

 green planting. 



For sheltering, wind-breaks, and close 

 screens to hide unsightly objects, the larger 

 growing Evergreens, — as the White, Aus- 

 trian, and Scotch Pines, the Norway Spruce, 

 and Balsam Fir, — have a value that is far 

 from being appreciated. For a low, broad 

 screen to separate ornamental grounds from 

 those devoted to the raising of crops nothing 

 is prettier than the Hemlock. For a higher 

 screen, where a very narrow base in propor- 

 tion to the height is wanted, the American 

 Arbor Vitae fills the bill exactly. The stiff, 

 formal look which single rows of Evergreens 

 have can be materially modified by planting 

 larger wind-breaks in the form of elongated 

 groups, and by making the most prominent 

 sides of screens backgrounds for smaller 

 Evergreens or flowering shrubs. Their use 

 for fences, especially in very small inclos- 

 ures, and where one joins another at right 

 angles, gives an inapt, clumsy look to a place 

 that more than counterbalances any beauty 

 the trees may be supposed to possess. 



For the location of individual specimen 

 trees, or groups, upon a lawn, it is difficult 

 to give anything but the most general rules. 

 Undoubtedly the queen of large Evergreens 

 is the Norway Spruce ; but, like other rulers, 

 it needs a large field for action. This, and 

 the American White Pine, should only be 

 planted on very large grounds, and the for- 

 mer should always have a clear expanse of 

 lawn all around. 



Large Evergreens should also be placed 

 on the outer borders of grounds. For lawns 



of less than one-third of an acre nothing is 

 better than the Siberian Silver Fir, — a com- 

 paratively rare, but very beautiful tree. 



In lawns of large extent there is nothing 

 more effective than large, irregular groups of 

 Evergreens, presenting deep recesses or bays, 

 partially dividing the lawn into smaller and 

 somewhat detached portions: These add 

 variety and seclusion, and afford abundant 

 opportunity for unexpected Surprises in the 

 way of flower-beds, and the most effective 

 display of shrubs of marked characteristics. 



L. B. Pierce. 



AMELANCHIER CANADENSIS, 



Under this head, Torrey and Gray have 

 placed all the known species of the older 

 botanist found in our own country. Although 

 the varieties vary apparently as much, and 

 often more, among themselves than species 

 of other genera do, their differences are not 

 so much of a specific character as due to in- 

 fluences of climate and locality. 



The common name is also exceedingly 

 diverse. In New England it is known as 

 the Shad Bush, from the fact that its season 

 of inflorescence commences at the time 

 when the shad first begins to ascend the 

 streams ; while in the South it is generally 

 known as June Berry, because the fruit 

 ripens in that month. 



The two most conspicuous varieties are the 

 Botrywpium and oblongifolia, both extremely 

 showy and notable by their early blooming. 



The variety Batryapium is a graceful little 

 tree, commonly attaining a height of from 

 ten to twenty-five feet, although occasionally 

 exceeding this size. The leaves are oblong- 

 ovate, sharply serrate, rather glossy, and 

 appear with the flowers early in the spring. 

 The blossoms are snow-white, produced 

 freely in long, light, drooping racemes ; the 

 stipules and enveloping bud scales are a 

 crimson purple and covered by silky hairs, 

 producing, by contrast of their color with the 

 pure white of the petals, a delicate and 

 beautiful effect. 



The other variety, oblongifolia, is a some- 

 what smaller tree than the preceding, and 

 often only a large shrub, growing in low 

 moist places. The flowers are borne in 

 more compact racemes, while the young 

 twigs and leaves are covered by a dense 

 white woolly down. 



Few indigenous trees or shrubs possess 

 more desirable qualities for ornamentation 

 than the Amelanchier. It is readily trans- 

 planted from its native habitat, especially 

 when young specimens and such that are 

 found in open, exposed situations are 

 selected. The earlier in spring the bushes 

 are dug up and removed the better, but we 

 have had good success in transplanting them 

 when already in flower. Of course, the 

 longer transplanting is deferred, the more 

 care should be taken to retain as many roots 

 as possible, the branches should be severely 

 pruned back, and all flower-buds removed as 

 soon as they appear during the first year. 

 The general character of the plant becomes 

 greatly improved under cultivation ; its flow- 

 ers become larger, and are produced in great- 

 er abundance, so that the little tree seems to 

 be completely blanketed with a snowy sheet. 

 It is noteworthy that even under consider- 

 able neglect they will still flourish, but here 

 as elsewhere well bestowed care and atten- 

 tion is amply repaid. Ike Ivy. 



AND GREENHOUSE. 



CINERARIAS, 



For amateurs, who have a small green^ 

 house and a few frames, let me commend 

 the cultivation of the Cineraria for winter 

 flowering. Its great variety of colors, deli^ 

 cate perfume, low habit, and simple culture 

 ought to make it a general favorite. There 

 is a point of interest, too, in perpetuating 

 good varieties and improving others by hy- 

 bridization, the results of which may be 

 fairly successful, as at that season there are 

 few insects to interfere with the process of 

 fertilization. 



For plants intended to bloom in Decem- 

 ber, sow in April or beginning of May, in 

 shallow, well-drained pans of fine soil ; sow 

 on the surface ; cover with a pane of glass 

 and paper, shade until germination takes 

 place, and put in a warm, shady part of 

 the greenhouse. When the seedlings have 

 two leaves, place into three-inch pots of rich 

 soil, composed of three parts turfy loam, one 

 part dried cow-manure, and a sprinkling 

 of sand. Keep them shaded for a few days, 

 and when well established water with diluted 

 manure-water occasionally. The last shift 

 should be into six or eight inch pots, well 

 drained, plunging the pots in ashes in a cold 

 frame facing the north ; means should be 

 taken to shade from the direct rays of sun 

 and, at the same time, give abundance of 

 air. When frost is expected, remove to the 

 coolest part of the greenhouse, where they 

 will gradually come into bloom. 



For Spring flowering plants, the seed is 

 sown in September or October, and the plants 

 receive their final potting in February. 



Francis Regan. 



IREESIAS. 



Freesias are little bulbous plants from the 

 Cape of Good Hope, long known to botan- 

 ists, but only recently introduced as popular 

 garden flowers. They grow twelve to fifteen 

 inches high, have foliage not unlike small, 

 narrow-leaved Irises, and a little bunch of 

 white or yellow, spotted with orange colored 

 flowers at the end of a ten to sixteen-inch 

 long, slender scape. These flowers are 

 moderately large, very pretty, deliciously 

 fragrant, abundantly produced, and great 

 favorites with florists for their finer bouquet 

 work. Potted in September or October, say 

 six to nine bulbs in a six-inch pot, and grown 

 along as you would a potted Hyacinth, 

 slowly at first, then in lighter and warmer 

 quarters, they will blossom between January 

 and the first of April. During the summer 

 months let them " dry off and rest," as you 

 would an Oxalis, and start them again, by 

 giving a little water in September. Unless 

 you think there would be too many roots in 

 the pot you may grow them in the same soil, 

 and without repotting them for two years, 

 providing you give them a top dressing of 

 fresh, rich earth. They are easily raised 

 from seed, and seedlings one year old will 

 blossom. Their nomenclature is somewhat 

 muddled, but the two kinds known as Freesia 

 refracta alba and F. Leichtliniana are, I think, 

 as good as any. Wm. Falconer. 



