GRAPE INSTRUCTIONS FOR INDIANA. 



337 



foreign blood in it as to be absolutely unreliable. This 

 came from Dr. Grant as a native grape. A grape nearly 

 or quite identical with the lona was sent years ago from 

 Austria, by an American gentleman, to the late David 

 Clark, of Hartford, and to Dr. Grant, of Iowa. If not 

 identical with the lona, the lona may have been a seed- 

 ling from it. But whatever its origin, in New England 

 it is a failure. 



The Jeflerson as a vineyard grape with us is an em- 

 phatic failure. 



The same may be said of the Prentiss and Empire 

 State. 



Of the Vergennes we planted an entire row, some 33 

 vines, believing it would be a success ; but it has been a 

 disappointment. It is a most excellent keeper, but 

 winter-kills in our vineyard and is quite subject to mil- 

 dew. Should not be planted in open vineyard but have 

 shelter. 



The Bacchus as a wine grape is desirable. It is much 

 like the Clinton, but we think better. 



Wyoming Red we think has merit as an early red 

 grape, but we have not yet so fully tested it as to speak 

 with full confidence. 



Of Woodruff Red we can only say it promises well. 



The Pearl, Othello, El Dorado, Quassiac, Secretary, 

 Excelsior, Ariadne, Waverly, Rebecca, Montgomery, 

 Missouri Reisling, Canada, Autuchon, Arnolds' No. 2 

 and No. 8, Black Pearl, Black Hawk, Black Eagle, 

 Beauty, can all be left out to the advantage of the prac- 

 tical vineyardist. 



The Pocklington, Martha, Lady and Hayes succeed 

 in our vineyard. So does the Niagara, though not as 

 hardy as the Pocklington. 



The Green Mountain promises well, is very early; the 

 best early grape we have yet tasted, but needs testing 

 further to ascertain its general adaptability to vineyard 

 planting. If it succeeds as a vineyard grape, it will be 

 a great boon. It is certainly worthy ofccareful trial in 

 widely varied locations throughout the country. 



Middhfu'ld, Ct P. M. Augur. 



GRAPE INSTRUCTIONS FOR INDIANA. 



Prepare the ground by deep and thorough cul- 

 ture. Deep planting is less liable to result in win- 

 ter-killing than shallow planting. For garden cul- 

 ture,. 4x6 feet, 4x8 feet or 6x8 feet are all good 

 distances, if vines are thoroughly pruned and not 

 allowed to bear too much wood or fruit. For field 

 culture, 8x8 feet, Sx 10 feet or even 10 x 10 feet are 

 not too great distances, as each vine can be allowed 

 to bear more clusters. A warm, sunny exposure to 

 the south and east is best, I think. Rich gravelly 

 or sandy loam is undoubtedly the best kind of soil ; 

 but any soil that will raise corn will raise grapes. 

 Grapes need to be as \\ ell cultivated as corn, to raise 

 as good a crop. 



Well-rooted one-year vines are the best. Be sure to 

 trim off all broken or bruised roots. Trim the top to 

 two buds the first year, and the same number the second 

 year. If more start, rub or cut off all but the two best. 



Until expected to bear, no staking or tying is necessary, 

 more than to keep them from being worn and broken by 

 the wind. I use posts 6 feet high, with five or six wires, 

 the lower one 12 inches from the ground, the upper one 

 on top the post, and the others at equal distant apart. 

 In the fall, after frost has killed all the leaves, after the 

 second summer's growth, trim to six to eight buds on 

 each vine. Lay down and cover lightly with earth just 

 before the ground freezes. In the spring, just as soon 

 as the ground is done freezing, uncover, and let the vines 

 lie until all the buds have started an inch or two ; then 

 fasten well to the lower wire, and as fast as the vines 

 reach a wire, tie to it. 



Allow the young bearing vines to grow to the top of 



the posts ; then cut oft, and keep them cut off the rest of 

 the summer. Always try to have two strong vines grow 

 out from the crown each summer. In the fall, cut away 

 all the old wood, trim as before, lay 'down this new wood 

 and cover with dirt. If you should not be able to get 

 new, stout vines from the crown, then cut the old wood 

 back to one bud on each upright and lay down, and cover 

 the old vine. The old canes will answer for three or four 

 years, but will not look so neat or bear as nice fruit as 

 younger ones. About 40 rose bushes planted to the acre 

 will entice the bugs, where they can be caught, and the 

 grapes will be saved. Never allow more than 20 or 30 

 of the largest clusters to each vine if the vines are no 

 more than 8 x S feet or S x 10 feet, for that gives all a \ ine 

 should bear. 10 to 15 pounds to the vine would be 3'2 

 to 5 tons per acre. 



Gi\'e clean culture up to the middle of August, and 

 later, unless the ground is mellow. The ground should 

 never be allowed to become baked. Good soil and cul- 

 tivation will go a long way toward preventing mildew, 

 rot and other diseases of the vine. Barn-yard manure, 

 ashes or potash and bone dust I regard as the best fertil- 

 izers, while lime, plaster and salt are useful. If the soil 

 is very rich, larger and fairer grapes will result, but they 

 will be poorer in flavor. 



I prevent rot by spraying with weak salt water twice 

 a week in the evening near sundown, If ice is kept in 

 in the water, all the better ; in fact, ice-water alone has 

 proved sure with me. Vines sprayed with cold well 

 water all perfected their fruit, while vines left to them- 

 selves, close by, nearly all rotted. This fact should at- 

 tract the attention of the experimenters. 



Bihiol, Indiana. L. H. G 



