CELERY, AND HOW TO GROW IT. 



669 



underbrush, such as naturally covers the sides of ditches 

 or banks. Though the bloom is very transitory, its 

 exceeding beauty and the grace of its long glossy-leaved 

 branches makes it well worth the caring for. 



The pittosporum has fine glossy foliage, sometimes 

 variegated with white, and rather effective, clustered, 

 white flowers, with a rather disagreeable perfume. A 

 hedge of the common fish geranium might be added to 



the above list, though it is an uncommon one. The 

 plants were nearly five feet high, and bloomed freely. 

 It was under my care for several winters, and stood a 

 low temperature, being partially covered on the coldest 

 nights, but it was killed by an unusually severe 

 ' ' freeze. " While it lived, it was a notable and brilliant 

 hedge. 



Cliarlcston. . C. 



CELERY, AND HOW TO GROW IT. 



(.(-■l FELL begun — half done !" Good plants 

 \ k / indispensable to a good beginning. 



To insure having them just when soil, 

 season and hands are ready, and the 

 weather favorable, they should be grown at home 

 — a task by no means difficult. 



To grow the plants, procure good seed from a reliable 

 source. As early in spring as the condition of ground 

 will permit, prepare a smooth, mellow seed bed in any 

 convenient spot, where the soil is rich and reasonably 

 free from weed seeds. Mineral manures make firm, 

 stiff plants ; hence wood ashes and phosphatic fertil- 

 izers, applied broadcast and thoroughly raked in, are 

 preferable to even the best compost with its probable 

 weed seed supply. 



Mark out drills not more than one-half inch deep and 

 not less than ten inches apart, and scatter the seed in 

 them evenly, like sowing carrots. Do not tover, but 

 walk over each row, putting the heel of one foot just 

 ahead of the toe of the other, thus stepping upon every 

 inch of row with your full weight, and pressing the 

 seed firmly into the soil. The natural moisture of the 

 ground insures prompt germination under this treat- 

 ment ; and the application of a light mulch of litter, 

 practiced by some, though perhaps beneficial in a few 

 cases, yet, as a rule, proves superfluous. Allow no 

 weeds to grow, and keep the soil well pulverized between 

 the rows all the time, loose soil being a perfect mulch. 

 Repeated light dressings of nitrate of soda are of won- 

 derful help. Thin where too thick, leaving about fifty 

 plants to the rod. If tops grow rank, shear them 

 back once or twice to make stocky plants. 



I practice sowing a few rows of celery in my vegetable 

 garden at the same time and in the same manner that I 

 sow my early vegetables ; and there, all receive the 

 same treatment. The rows are frequently cultivated 

 with either Ruhlman's wheel hoe or Gregory's finger- 

 weeder, and weeded by hand as often as required. Thus 

 I raise a row of celery plants about as cheaply as one 

 of cabbage plants or radishes. The same length of 

 row produces nearly twice as many celery plants as it 

 would cabbage plants ; and the former are worth twice 

 as much money. 



There are few localities where a limited number of 

 good celery plants would not find ready sale at 50 cents 

 per 100. This pays exceedingly well, and often more 



than the production of marketable celery. Hence these 

 minute directions. 



Growing the crop from good plants is comparatively 

 easy. If not grown at home, I would rather buy them 

 of a skilful grower near by, than risk the uncertainties 

 of long transportation by express. 



Between July ist, perhaps even earlier for very early 

 use, and August ist (later at the south) the plants are 

 set in rows three or four feet apart for dwarf, four or 

 five feet for tall varieties, and six inches apart in the 

 row. A rich piece of land, just cleared from any early 

 garden crop, is usually in fit condition for celery with- 

 out manure, except perhaps a dressing of wood ashes 

 and phosphates scattered over the rows and mixed thor- 

 oughly with the soil before setting plants. If the soil 

 is not rich enough, a deep furrow may be plowed out 

 for each row, half filled with fine compost and this well 

 mixed with the soil in the bottom of furrow. Coarse 

 strawy stuff is not wanted. Re-fill with soil, leaving a 

 slight depression so as to make the surface of the piece 

 somewhat undulating. Stretch a garden line along the 

 row and set the plants, after shortening tops and tap 

 root and dipping roots in water, in the usual manner, 

 always pressing the soil firmly about the roots. Select 

 for this work a time when the soil is fairly moist — 

 neither wet nor dry. In a dry time set after 4 P. M. 

 and water plants freely after setting. 



Now keep the path clean and the surface of the soil 

 open and mellow close up to the plants at all times. 

 The first step toward " blanching " is the " handling.'' 

 flow light furrows towards the rows, or draw loose soil 

 up to them with the hoe. Gather all stalks of one 

 plant together; hold them firmly with one hand, and 

 with the other pack enough soil around it to keep 

 the plant permanently in this upright position. More 

 soil is then drawn up with the plow or hoe. For plants 

 to be stored for winter, this "handling" is sufficient; 

 but if intended for fall use, the crop has to undergo the 

 blanching process. With plow and hoe bring the soil 

 between the rows up to the plants, putting the finish on 

 with the spade until only a few inches of the tops are 

 visible. This is done from September to November, or 

 from three to four weeks before the crop is wanted for 

 market or home consumption. 



The most popular way of storing for winter is by 

 placing a row close together in narrow trenches, the tops 



