FROM PARA TO MANAOS. 



17.^ 



behind, and, after calling at two or three Indian houses 

 to see if we could supply the deficiency, we were obliged 

 to send back to Villa Bella for it. In the mean time 

 we moored our boats at the foot of a little hill, on which 

 stands an Indian house, where we stopped to breakfast, 

 and where we are still waiting for the return of our 

 messengers. I must say, that a near view of Arcadia tends 

 to dispel illusions; but it should be added, that this speci- 

 men is by no means a favorable one. The houses at Taja- 

 piiru were far more attractive, and the appearance of their 

 inhabitants much neater and more respectable, than those 

 of our friends here. Yet at this moment the scene is 

 not altogether uninviting. Some of the party are loung- 

 ing in the hammocks, which we have slung under the 

 great porch, as we are to pass several hours here ; an 

 improvised rustic table, consisting of a board resting on 

 forked sticks, stands at one side ; the boatmen are clearing 

 away the remains of our late repast ; the Indian women, 

 dirty, half clad, with their hair hanging uncombed around 

 their faces, are tending their naked children, or kneading 

 the mandioca in a huge trough. The men of the house 

 have just returned from fishing, the morning having been 

 more successful in that respect than was expected, and 

 are now fitting up a rough forge, in which they are re- 

 pairing some of their iron instruments. In the mean 

 time Science has its sacred corner, where Mr. Agassiz is 

 investigating new species, the result of the morning's fish- 

 ing, while Mr. Burkhardt is drawing them. 



August 29th. — Finding yesterday that our shelter grew 

 more uncomfortable as the day wore on, and being obliged 

 to wait for the night fishing, we determined to cross the 

 lake to a " Sitio " (as the inhabitants call their plantations) 



