May from pots, the annuals will not be disturbed. 

 Also take care to preserve the names of the kinds. 

 This is a great part of the interest in a flower-garden. 



Herbaceous plants do badly if several years in one 

 place. Every second year, at this season, take up 

 and divide them. Sow as soon as possible some 

 hardy annuals. The earlier they are in the ground 

 after the frost leaves it, the finer they bloom. 



Ornamental hedges judiciously introduced into a 

 small place, add greatly to its interest. No easier 

 method offers whereby to make two acres of garden 

 out of one in the surveyor's draught. The Arbor- 

 vitas, (Chinese and American), Hemlock, Holly, 

 Beech, Hornbeam, Pyrus japonica. Privet, and 

 Buckthorn may be applied to this purpose. 



Shrubs are not near enough employed in planting 

 small places. By a judicious selection, a place may 

 be had in a blooming state all the year ; and they, 

 besides, give it a greater interest by their variety, 

 than is obtained by the too frequent error of filling 

 it up with but two or three forest trees of gigantic 

 growth. Plant thickly at first, to give the place a 

 finished appearance, and thin out as they grow 

 older. Masses of shrubs have a fine effect on a 

 small place. The centre of such masses should be 

 filled with evergreen shrubs, to prevent a naked 

 appearance in the winter season. 



Many things that appear frosted a little at the tops 

 should be severely cut down ; it will prevent disap- 

 pointment in the end. Shoots that are injured in 

 winter — especially in the case of the rose — will often 

 have just sufiicient vigor left to enable them to put 

 forth leaves, and sometimes even go so far as to at- 

 tempt to flower, and then die ofi* suddenly under 

 the first hot sun. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



There is no more difficult question to answer than 

 what varieties of fruit to plant. Every progressive 

 Horticulturist likes to add for trial every new variety 

 that may probably prove of value, but new beginners 

 do not wish to experiment, but to commence with 

 what has been proven to be good. Were we just 

 about to plant for the first time, and wish to select 

 six, each of difi"erent fruits, they would be]the follow- 

 ing, as having been tried in most parts of the United 

 States, and generally been found to do well in all, 

 although there are some of them that have not 

 been found to do as well as some others in some spe- 

 cified localities : 



Grapes. — Concord, Diana, Delaware, Clinton, 

 Hartford Prolific, Bogers No 4. 



Currants. — Red Dutch, White Dutch, Versailles, 

 Black Naples, May's Victoria and Cherry. 



Raspberries. — Philadelphia, Brinckle's Orange, 

 Hornet, Belle de Fontenay, Catawissa, Franconia. 



Apples for Z>w«?/.— Gravenstein, Bed Astrachan, 

 Lady Apple, Fameuse,Fall Pippin, Summer Bough. 



StandardApjDles. —King of Tompkins Co , Porter, 

 Baldwin, Smith's Cider, Bhode Island Greening, 

 Summer Hagloe. 



Fears for Dwarf —Louise Bonne de Jersey, Belle 

 Lucratif,Beurre d' Anjou,Beurre Superfin,Duchesse 

 d'Angouleme, Bostiezer. 



Standard. — Bartlett, Seckel, Sheldon, Lawrence, 

 Bufl'am, Beurre Clairgeau. 



Plums. — Jefferson, Washington, Bichland, Old 

 Green Gage, McLaughlin, Duane's Purple. 



Cherries. — May Duke, Early Richmond, Black 

 Tartarian, Belle de Choisy, Early Purple Guigne, 

 Belle Magnifique. 



Peaches.— Early York, Hale's Early, Old Mixon, 

 Stump the World, Crawford's Late, Ward's Late. 



Strawberries. — Wilson's Albany, Downer's Seed- 

 ling, Triomphe de Gand, Green Prolific, French's 

 Seedhng, Russell's Prolific. 



There are others perhaps quite as good as these, 

 but we confine ourselves to six of each. 



Grape-vines in the open air, on arbors and trel- 

 Jises, should have their pruning finished before warm 

 spring days set in, or they will bleed. It does not 

 injure them much, but it looks bad. The pruning 

 must be regulated by the condition of the vine. If 

 the vines are young and the shoots weak, cut them 

 all back, to make a new and vigorous growth. If 

 already a fair quantity of strong shoots of last sea- 

 son's growth exists, cut out the weaker ones, so as 

 to leave enough of stronger ones. The cane system 

 shghtly modified, is best for arbors and trellises in 

 the hands of amateurs generally. This implies a 

 new set of canes every year or two. If, as fre- 

 quently happens from bad management, all the 

 young and strong-bearing wood exists only at the 

 end of the vines, — and these latter have become no- 

 thing but long, ropy-looking apologies for what a 

 vine should be ; the whole cane may be buried 

 down in the soil to where the strong shoots spring 

 from, and the young wood of last season trained up 

 from this. The plant will then recover its good ap- 

 pearance quite as well as by cutting down, with the 

 advantage of not sacrificing a year's crop of fruit. 



Many kinds of raspberries, especially in dry soils, 

 have a tendency to throw up innumerable suckers. 

 These should be thinned out. Three or four canes 

 are enough to leave in a "hill." We like, however, 

 to grow raspberries in rows, where each cane may 

 have a chance to enjoy an independent existence of 

 about a square foot of soil for itself. 



