34 



ihc iardfitcr's Jflonthls. 



it is well to keep it on the outside, to prevent injury 

 under such circumstan es. Besides, some fine 

 climbers, as Grelseniium nitidum, and many kinds 

 of Roses, which require a slight protection in win- 

 ter, may then be easily taken down, and be coiled 

 into a circular form at the base of the plant, and 

 covered with soil, which is one of the simplest and 

 best modes of protection, and by which many of our 

 hardier greenhouse climbers might be kept out in 

 pretty severe winters. 



Do not phint immediately after the frost leaves 

 the soil; wait till it dries a little, when you can 

 tread the soil firmly about the roots without risk of 

 rendering it hard as it dries more. If circumstances 

 make it necessary to plant in wet soil, do not press 

 the soil much until it gets drier. It is important to 

 have the soil well pressed about the roots, but it in- 

 jures soil to press it when wet. 



As soon as the frost leaves the ground, the lawn 

 should be rolled with a heavy roller, while it is yet 

 soft ; this will make it have a smooth surface, take 

 out many small inequalities, and press again into the 

 soil the roots of the finer grasses which the frost 

 may have drawn out. Where new lawns have to 

 be made next spring, the seeds should be sown as 

 early in March as possible, and the ground should 

 be prepared for that now, if opportunity ofi'ers. 

 For a good lawn the soil should be loosened at least 

 twenty inches deep, and be well enriched with stable- 

 manure, where practicable, in preference to any 

 concentrated preparations. Guano, super-phos- 

 phates, &c., are well enough ; but they do not give 

 the soil that fibre, or lend it that porosity by which 

 it retains moisture and air, so essential to perfect 

 vegetation. 



c4i 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



In those sections of the country which have passed 

 winter's cold and spring winds, general planting will 

 commence. It is best, however, not to be in a 

 hurrry ; cold winds are very hard on spring-planted 

 trees. Whenever planting is done, always shorten 

 in most of the last season's growth. It is through 

 these much of the evaporation takes place that dries 

 up and kills a tree before the new roots are formed. 

 Let it be a rule never to plant a tree without pruning 

 it. Some, who get most of their Horticultural 

 knowledge in their closets, will object to this, as op- 

 posed to theories taught by professors. Never mind. 

 Plant two trees near together : prune one severely, 

 and leave the other un pruned. You will not after- 

 wards feel it a disgrace to be dubbed "a practical 

 gardener." 



Never plant on a cold, windy day, and do not 

 plant fruit trees on a poor, thin soil. Subsoil, drain, 

 and enrich, cannot be kept too prominently before 

 the planter. If the trees grow too luxuriantly to 

 bear well after this, it is easily remedied. We can 

 plant dwarf trees, or root prune, or practise summer 

 pinching and training. The last can only be done, 

 successfully, by experts. Where skill cannot be 

 employed, dwarfing and root pruning will be ex- 

 tensively used. 



VEGETABLE GARDEN. 



In the Middle States the work for February will, 

 for the most part, consist of preparations for future 

 operations, and particularly for dealing with the ma- 

 nure question. All those kinds that are grown for 

 their leaves or stems require an abundance of nitro- 

 genous manures ; and it is useless to attempt vege- 

 table gardening without it. To this class belong 

 Cabbage, Lettuce, Spinach, etc. The other class, 

 which is grown principally for its seeds or pods, (as 

 Beans, Peas, etc.,) do not require much manure of 

 this character; in fact, they are injured by it. It 

 causes too great a growth of stem and leaf, and the 

 earliness — a great aim in vegetable growing — is inju- 

 riously aflfected. Mineral manures, as wood ashes, 

 bone-dust, etc., are much better for them. For vege- 

 tables requiring rich stable manure, it is better that 

 they have it well rotted and decayed. Nothing has 

 yet been found so well fitted for the purpose as old 

 hot-bed dung : though, to the smell, no trace of 

 " ammonia" remains in it. 



In managing the vegetable garden the highest ex- 

 cellence should be aimed at. This is the chief source 

 of pleasure in a garden. If one cai, take no pleasure 

 in his garden, — if the watching of the beautiful pro- 

 cessses of nature in furnishing him food, — and the 

 many lessons they teach him, which he in a thou- 

 sand ways can so pleasurably and profitably apply, 

 have no charms or attractions for him, he had better 

 give up gardening ; for, assuredly, in most cases, — 

 even to 99 in 100 instances, — the market gardener 

 will bring the vegetables to his own door cheaper 

 than he can grow them. Amateur gardening should 

 primarily be pursued for the lessons it teaches, and 

 the pleasure it affords ; when it ceases to do this it 

 should be abandoned. 



One of the most interesting parts of a vegetable 

 garden is a hot-bed for starting seeds early. The 

 end of the month will be time enough for those 

 who have not command of a large supply of stable 

 manure, as the very low temperature we often get 

 at the end of the month, soon absorbs all the heat 



