fl 



228 



ih4 §mkmr'% Jlonthlj. 



tion, — and the earth being warm, new roots push 

 with great rapidity, and the tree becomes estab- 

 lished in the ground before cold autumn winds be- 

 gin. The chief difficulty is that the soil is usually 

 very dry, which prevents much speed with the op- 

 peration ; and the weather being usually very warm, 

 the trees have to be set again in the ground almost 

 as fast as they are taken up ; so that it is not safe 

 to bring them from a distance. It is as well, there- 

 fore, to make all ready in anticipation of a rain, 

 when no time may be lost in having the work \ ushed 

 through. Should a spell of dry weather eiisue, — 

 which in September and October is very likely, — 

 one good watering should be given, sufficient to 

 soak well through the soil and well about the roots. 

 A basin should be made to keep the water from 

 running away from the spot, and to assist its soak- 

 ing in. After being well watered, the loose soil, 

 sho'jld be drawn in lightly over the watered soil, 

 which will then aid in preventing the water from 

 drying out soon again. 



As soon in the fall as bulbs can be obtained, they 

 should be planted — though this will not generally 

 be the case till October, — but it is as well to bear 

 in mind that the earlier they are planted, the finer 

 they will flower. 



Towards the end of the month, and in Septem- 

 ber, evergreen hedges should receive their last 

 pruning till the next summer. Last spring, and 

 in the summer, when a strong growth required it, 

 the hedge has been severely pruned towards the 

 apex of the cone-like form in which it has been 

 trained, and the base has been suffered to grow any 

 way it pleases. Now that, in turn, has come un- 

 der the shears, so far as to get it into regular shape 

 and form. It will not be forgotten that, to be 

 very successful with evergreen hedges, they ought 

 to have a growth at the base of at least four feet 

 in diameter. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



If you conclude to plant strawberries this or next 

 month, as many do, see that the ground is well roll- 

 ed after digging, and the plants not set any deeper 

 than they grew before. If the weather be hot and 

 dry when planting, put the roots in a basin of water 

 before setting them in the dibbled hole. Use plants 

 that have not been crowded, and do not cut the 

 leaves off. If the plants have been drawn, and you 

 cannot get any other, you must trim away a few or 

 the whole plant will wither up. Large growers will 

 plant the way they find by experience to suit their 

 circumstances, but for garden culture the best way 

 is to set all you want in one large bed in rows 18 



inches apart, and the plants 4 inches in the row, 

 letting the plants run together in the row, but hoe- 

 ing out all the runners that would bring the rows 

 together. 



Many have difficulty in getting raspberries and 

 blackberries to grow well at the regular planting 

 season. If the young suckers are taken up now and 

 carefully transplanted without allowing the plants 

 to wither much they take very well and a season is 

 saved thereby. If the suckers are more than six 

 inches long, best pinch out the tender heart. 



Much controversy has existed as to whether grape 

 vines grown a season in pots be as good as those 

 grown only for a month or so before putting out in 

 the open ground in vspring. One thing is certain, if 

 any can bo got in pots and set out during this or 

 next month they will take root and do well. We 

 would rather have a good one year old to get and 

 set out now than a two year old transplanted from 

 the open ground in fall or spring. 



This is the season when summer pruning fruit 

 trees is recommended. This must not be done in- 

 discriminately, and without an object. Remember 

 summer pruning injures vitality. It brings trees 

 into a bearing state earlier, but if the vitality is 

 already weakened, as it often is by the mere fact of 

 dwarfing, we must take care not to go too far with 

 the pinching. 



HOT AND GREENHOUSE. 



Preparations must now be made with a view to 

 stocking the houses for the next winter and spring's 

 use. Gi-eraniums of all kinds may now be readily 

 struck. A frame in a shady place, set on some 

 light sandy soil, in the open air, affords one of the 

 best places possible for striking all kinds of half- 

 ripened wood. A partial shade is at all times best 

 for cuttings at the start, though the sooner they 

 can be made to accustom themselves safely to the 

 full hght, the better do they usually do. 



Seed of many things may also be sown for winter 

 and spring blooming, particularly Cineraria, Calce- 

 olaria, Pansy, Daisy, Chinese Primrose, and some 

 of the annuals. Great care is necessary with the 

 Calceolaria. The seed is so small, that it rebels at 

 the smallest covering of soil. The best way is to 

 sow it on the surface, water well, and then cover 

 with a pane of glass until fairly germinated ; this 

 will prevent evaporation and consequent drying of 

 the seed. Almost all kinds of seeds germinate most 

 readily in partial shade ; but as soon as possible 

 after germination, they should be inured to as much 

 light as they will bear. 



Many kinds of greenhouse plants, as Oranges, 



