training in a conical form, while the side and basal 

 shoots should be sulfered to grow as much as they 

 possibly will, without let or hindrance, during the 

 summer season. As soon as the leaves begin to 

 fall, t'aese lowermost shoots should be brought into 

 shape, so as to render the hedge perfect. 



Many kinds of bedding plants of succulent or 

 sub-fleshy growth, can be taken up from the flow- 

 er-beds, on the approach of frost, and cut in, say 

 one-half, and packed thickly in boxes of soil, and 

 kept in a rather dry and cool cellar through winter. 

 Such fine plants make a much better show in the 

 bed the next year than plants of the present sea- 

 son's striking. A cellar is one of the most useful 

 appendages to a garden. Were we to have only 

 one choice, we should prefer a cellar to a green- 

 house for its general usefulness. 



As soon as Dutch bulbs can be obtained, they 

 should be at once planted. Of all fertilizers, well- 

 rotted cow-manure has been found best for them, 

 and especially if mixed with a portion of fine sand. 

 They should be set about four inches beneath the 

 surface of the ground, and a little sand put about 

 the root when being planted. A very wet soil usu- 

 ally rots the roots, and a dry one detracts from the 

 size of the blooms. A soil in which the generality 

 of garden vegetables do well, is one of the best for 

 these plants. 



Those who have no greenhouse, and yet are de- 

 sirous of preserving many half-hardy plants through 

 the winter, employ cold pits. Choose the dryest 

 situation in the garden, and sink about five feet in 

 depth. It is important that no water can be re- 

 tained at the bottom. The pit may be of any 

 length required, and about five feet wide, so as to 

 accommodate six feet sash. The inside of the pit 

 may be built up of boards, or, if something more 

 durable and substantial is required, brick or stone. 

 The body of the frame may be built up a few feet 

 above the level of the surrounding soil, and the 

 earth which comes from the pit be employed in 

 banking up to the upper level of the frame. Shel- 

 ving should be made for the inside so as to extend 

 from the base of the front to nearly the top of the 

 back, on which to place the plants in pots. In the 

 space wliich will then be under the staging, hard 

 wooded and deciduous plants, as lemon verbena, 

 fuchsias, etc., may be safely stored, while the more 

 succulent kinds are shelved over head. The plants 

 to be preserved in such a pit should be potted early, 

 and be well established and healthy before being 

 pitted ; much of success depends on this. The less 

 water they can be made to live on without wither- 

 ing through the winter the better they will keep. 



Straw mats must be employed to cover the glass 

 when freezing times commences, and when the ther- 

 mometer is likely to tall below 20°, straw or litter 

 should be thrown over. Board shutters are also 

 excellent, as it keeps the snow oat from the straw 

 and litter, which sometimes makes the mats very 

 awkward to uncover when we wou'd like to give air. 

 Very little light or air will be required through the 

 winter, when the plants are not growing. If a good 

 fall of snow cover the pit, it may lie on undisturbed 

 for two weeks or more without injury. When a 

 warm dry day offers, the sashes may be raised if 

 convenieni, to dry up the damp. Many kinds of 

 border plants can be kept over winter this way with 

 little trouble. 



VEGETABLE GARDEr?. 



Cabbage and Cauliflower are sown this month for 

 spring use. The former requires some care, as if 

 it grows too vigorous before winter, it will all run 

 to seed in the spring. The best plan is to make 

 two sowings — one early in the month, and the other 

 at the end. The rule is to get them only just so 

 strong that they may lie over the winter in safety. 

 Many preserve them in frames ; but they should 

 have wooden sashes or shutters instead of glass, so 

 as not to encourage them to grow too much. 



Cauliflower, on the other hand, cannot well be too 

 forward. Most persons provide a pit of stone, bricks 

 or wood, sunk five or six feet below the surface of 

 the ground, into which leaves, manure or any waste 

 vegetable matter is filled. When quite full, it is 

 suffered to heat a little, when it will sink somewhat 

 and have more material added to it; about six in- 

 ches of good rich loam is then placed on it, and 

 early in November the Cauliflower planted out. 

 The object in refilling the leaves so often is to in- 

 sure the plants remaining as near the glass as pos- 

 sible, which is very essential in the growth of Caul- 

 iflower. Lettuce is treated in the same way, and 

 seed should be sown now to prepare for the plant- 

 ing. The Cabbage Lettuce is the kind usually em- 

 ployed. 



The main crop of Spinage should now be sown. 

 Properly cooked, there are few vegetables more 

 agreeable to the general taste, and few families who 

 have gardens will wish to be without it. It is es- 

 sential that it have a very well enriched soil, as good 

 large leaves constitute its perfection as a vegetable. 

 As soon as the weather becomes severe, a light cov- 

 ering of straw should be thrown over it. A few 

 Radishes may be sown - with the Spinage for fall 

 use. 



Turnips also may still be sown. In fact, if the 



