52 JOITRNEY TROM RIO DE JANEIRO 



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powder-horn and shot-bag, while the lock of the long fowling-piece 

 is generally secured from Avet by the skin of some animal. 



The temperature at Gurapina was very variable ; some days were 

 so cold, that the thermometer fell at noon to 13° of Reaumur, but 

 we had intervals of warm and pleasant weather. I often penetrated 

 into these mountainous wildernesses ; and could not help being 

 charmed with the repose and solemn silence that pervaded them, 

 interrupted only by flocks of screaming parrots. Amidst these en- 

 joyments, we lived quite happy and contented in the environs of 

 Gurapina, and our stay was rendered still more agreeable by the 

 circumstance of there being an abundant supply of fresh provisions. 

 Those which the traveller can carry with him in the Brazils, consist of 

 mandiocca flour, black beans, maize, dried salt meat, and rice. Instead 

 of the dried, we here obtained good fresh meat : the owner of the 

 fazenda furnished us with a large quantity of the finest oranges, also 

 with brandy made from the sugar-cane, rice, sugar, flour, maize, and 

 cotton ; and such was his liberality, that he would not accept any 

 payment whatever for all these articles. This refusal obliged us to 

 leave h*m sooner than we should otherwise have done, as the situa- 

 tion, in' addition to its other advantages, afforded ample materials for 

 successfully pursumg our scientific researches. Having reluctantly 

 taken leave of our obliging host, we set out for Ponta Negra. 



The roads were frequently in so bad a state, that our beasts were 

 in danger of sinking under their heavy burdens. We rode through 

 thick bushes of high reed-like grass, rhexia, and low palms : on some 

 eminences we found negroes, who, to render the. ground fit for culti- 

 vation, were clearing away the bushes, with a sickle-shaped iron 

 fastened to a long handle ; and in some fazenclas which we passed, 

 there were hedges thickly planted with orange-trees. Having filled 

 our pouches and coat-pockets with birds, and many kinds of seeds 

 now ripe, we at length reached the Lagoa da Ponta Negra. On the 



