56 



JOURNEY FROM RIO DE JANEIRO 



were yet to be surmounted, before we should regain our native shores. 

 Night put an end to these meditations. 



We returned to Sagoarema, which is chiefly inhabited by fisher- 

 men, who also derive some portion of their subsistence from agricul- 

 ture. Formerly a considerable quantity of cochineal was raised here, 

 but its cultivation has been relinquished. It was purchased by the 

 King at the rate of half a doble (6400 reas) a pound ; but the planters 

 themselves destroyed this lucrative trade, by adulterating this dear 

 commodity with flour to such a degree as to render it unfit for use. 

 The next day, which was Sunday, my companions attended mass in 

 the church of Sagoarema ; while I had our baggage carried across the 

 lake in canoes, and the mules waded through the shallow water. 



On leaving the above place we passed through woods like those 

 we had seen in the preceding part of the journey. The great orna- 

 ment of this part of the country consists in the number of its glassy 

 lakes, which extend from Marica to the environs of Cape Frio. 

 Amazing numbers of water-fowl live on the banks of these lakes ; 

 principally terns, gulls, and herons, of which we shot great quantities. 

 I could not avoid observing that most of the marsh and water-fowl 

 of this country have species analogous to them in Europe ; indeed 

 the difference between the two, in many instances, is very trifling. 

 The smallest tern * was very frequent in the downs of the sea-coast ; 

 here those pretty little birds flew about like swallows, and their 

 shining white plumage was now rendered more conspicuous by the 

 black clouds of a gloomy sky. Beyond the downs of the coast 

 extensive morasses appeared, and the intermediate sandy soil was 



* I call this bird sterna argentea ; it might be easily confounded with our sterna minuta, 

 but it is different ; its size exceeds that of our European bird, for I found it to measure nine 

 inches and one line ; the bill and feet are yellow, the former has a black tip ; the fore part 

 of the head and all the under parts of the bird are white, the top of the head and neck black ; 

 the back, wings, and tail of a beautiful silver grey. 



