62 



JOURNEY FROM RIO DE JANEIRO 



reached the fazenda which we saw at a distance in a meadow, and 

 where, according to the assurance of our former host, we might 

 expect a very friendly reception. It had formerly been a con- 

 vent, and has a considerable new church, near which many large 

 buildings are erected. Here we first saw a disease which is very 

 common among the negroes in the south part of Brazil ; namely, 

 swelled feet. They become covered with a hard, thick scurf, as in 

 the elephantiasis. 



We requested the proprietor to let us pass the night in his pre- 

 mises ; but, contrary to the custom of the Brazilian planters, whom 

 we had hitherto seen only in an advantageous light, we were shewn 

 a miserable varaiida adjoining the stables, where we were indeed 

 covered over-head from the rain, but completely exposed to the wea- 

 ther on each side. As to the owner, he withdrew on our arrival ; 

 thus proving that our friends at Tiririca, when they gave him the 

 character of a hospitable man, had paid him a compliment which 

 he ill deserved. We sent to request he would sell us some rice and 

 a little maize for the mules ; but he positively refused, under pretext 

 that he had neither. He farther expressed his doubts whether he 

 should allow us any water. Upon this we sent some of our servants 

 round the neighbourhood, to purchase what we wanted at other 

 fazendas. Very early the following morning we had our beasts 

 loaded, and sent them forward ; but rode ourselves to the captain's 

 house, and sent him word that we wished to take leave of him. 

 When he appeared, we thanked him, with the greatest politeness, for 

 his ohlig'mg treatment, adding, that we should take care to inform 

 the Prince Regent at Rio how well he had fulfilled the kind intentions 

 of the Government as manifested in our papers : at which, though 

 seemingly confounded, yet foaming with rage, he cried " What is 

 the Prince Regent to me V 



Continuing our journey, we soon reached a marsh surrounded with 



