168 



STAY AT CAPITANIA, 



huts, in a small level valley; there is only one house of rather better 

 appearance among them, which is at present occupied by the com- 

 mandant of the district, a lieutenant of the garrison of Espirito Santo. 

 In this house M^e were very kindly received ; the inhabitants were de- 

 lighted in the opportunity of conversing with human beings ; they 

 consider this station, where the officer is fixed for some years, as a 

 kind of exile. The lieutenant stationed here at the time of our visit 

 complained much of want of amusement and of all the comforts of 

 life ; and they are obliged to dispense even with many of its neces- 

 saries in this sequestered spot. Scarcely any provisions are to be had 

 here except mandiocca flour and fish. The inhabitants of Aldea 

 Velha are poor fishermen ; the river however abounds in fish, and 

 has a good harm, so that lanchas (boats) can sail pretty far up it. 



As this place had nothing that could long detain us, we took leave 

 of our kind host the next day, and crossed the river. The stream 

 was very deep, broad and rapid, and one of the mules we rode nar- 

 rowly escaped drowning, which would have been an irreparable loss 

 in this part of the country. A young Indian in the service of the 

 commandant, who very skilfully managed our canoe, which was 

 tossed about by the waves, was very serviceable on this occasion. In 

 the shallow places near the bank we observed gulls and sea-swallows, 

 and numerous flights of the rynchops nigra (Linn.) which is well known 

 for its singular bill. Beyond the river are extensive woods, in which 

 the plantations of the Indians lie scattered : they cultivate principally 

 maize, mandiocca, and rape, from the seed of which they extract oil. 

 Here we again entered a thick beautiful forest, where the finest butter- 

 flies fluttered on variegated flowers, and the roaring of the surf of the 

 sea struck our ears. The call of the Jacupemba or Brazilian turkey, a 

 bird of the pheasant kind, attracted the attention of our hunters ; but 

 as it is very shy, they did not kill any. We soon reached the sea- 

 coast again, and proceeded four leagues farther, till we arrived 



