306 



STAY ON THE RIO GRANDE DE BELMONTE, 



towing-rope, without unloading the canoe. We soon reached a 

 place where the river flows pretty smoothly, and without much cur- 

 rent. On the north bank there is a high projecting rock, under 

 which there is a kind of cavern ; this place bears the name of Lapa, or 

 cave, of the Mineiros. This cavern, as it is called, is properly speak- 

 ing, only a covered recess, formed by the projection, where travellers 

 are accustomed to pass the night, when the evening surprises them in 

 this place, because their fire is perfectly sheltered from the wind and 

 rain. Beyond this place, the river is straitened between the moun- 

 tains which border it, and large blocks of rock lie on its banks. We 

 stopped for a time near a small stream f corrego ) ; my boatmen went 

 on shore, in order, as they said, to look for whetstones ; all the stone 

 of this little stream consisted of the various kinds of primitive rocks 

 which occur in Minas, mixed with much mica ; my people, among 

 whom there was an experienced Mineiro, affirmed also, that gold was 

 not unfrequently found here, and that the existence of this metal was 

 indicated with certainty by the appearance of the stone. In the 

 rough bed of this impetuous forest-streanl, which descends through 

 uninhabited wildernesses, we found traces of the Tapirs and Capyba- 

 ras, the peaceable inhabitants of these solitudes. The stream supplies 

 them with clear water, even in the rainy season, and the surrounding 

 wilds afford them the most convenient retreats. 



We passed some other inconsiderable falls, over which it gave us much 

 trouble to get the canoe, on account of the shallowness of the water. 

 Evening came upon us at a narrow part of the river ; we took up our 

 quarters on a sandy flat, upon the bank, between rocks. Two red 

 ounces fonca fufuara?ina, fells concolor, Linn.) had lately been 

 prowling about here; their tracks were still quite fresh; and we were 

 engaged in examining them, when our attention was drawn to a com- 

 pany of otters, which, while fishing, suffered themselves to be carried 

 by the current down the river. They often raised their heads above 

 water, and snorted aloud ; but they were unfortunately bej^ond the 



