NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



31 



arid and blue, but dappled with clouds of the softest texture. In the 

 woods a fire was kindled at our approach, and its pillar of slowly-rolling 

 smoke not only added to the beauty of the scene, but gave us an 

 assurance of civilized inhabitants; for it was evidently intended as a 

 signal. 



To weary passengers at sea, the sight of land, in fine weather, is 

 always gratifying ; but that alone leaves the mind in suspense. When 

 first beheld from the ocean, it frequently presents the appearance of a 

 grey-looking desert, sometimes broken into frowning abruptnesses ; and 

 should the view, as it is approached, become verdant and woody, varied 

 and interesting, still there is a doubt respecting countries little known, 

 whether the forest be inhabited by wild beasts or civilized men, by 

 savages or friends. Such feelings applied, in some measure, to the season 

 of my first visit to this part of Brazil, the 25th of June, 1808. The 

 Prince Regent of Portugal had indeed preceded us, but we knew not how 

 he had been received, nor what was the state and disposition of the 

 country. Our vessel had cleared out for Rio de Janeiro, and as an 

 ultimate port, in case of necessity, for St. Catharine's. We had spoken 

 no foreign ship at sea, had passed a long tract of water, and arrived upon 

 the coast as ignorant as we left England. The appearance of fire, and 

 that fire manifestly a signal, joined to the sight of a pile of cleaved wood, 

 which our glasses enabled us to distinguish, or think we saw, on the beach, 

 a clothed man walking, and two or three square huts under the trees, 

 were to us promises of comfort, and inspired us with immediate pleasure 

 and hope, as we afterward steered along a varied, but generally bold and 

 barren, sliore. 



A stranger, who has no vessel under his care to create anxiety, will 

 enter the harbour of Rio most pleasantly, by running down from Ponte 

 Negro close to the shore, until the Ilha Pay, Prophet's or Sorcerer's 

 Isle, is brought on with the Sugar Loaf This will give him an oppor- 

 tunity, of seeing every inlet to the coast, some of which, bordered by 

 lofty masses of naked granite, are very beautiful. It will place before 

 him, almost in a line, the Corcovado, Gavia, Two Brothers, and other 



