54 



NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



and the whole evinces that it has profited Uttle by any predilection of 

 the great or the wealthy. The orchestra is at the East end, and awk- 

 wardly crowded towards the ceiling. Around are traces of consi derable 

 foundations, much overgrown with brushwood. 



Hither the citizens resort, in the cool of the afternoon, to look at 

 the ocean, and enjoy the pure sea-breeze ; stone seats being formed for 

 them all along the outside of the church. The view from this spot 

 towards the ISouth is a varied and interesting one, commanding a wide 

 stretch of the ocean, the entrance to the harbour, several islajids and 

 forts, the outer roads, and the whole lower bay, the opposite shores and 

 the surrounding mountains. But the best point of view is towards the 

 North- West, where, about sun-set, we are attracted, not so much by the 

 extensive plain, which lies between the mountains of Tengua and 

 Tejuca, as by the gentle undulations, which succeed each other for 

 many leagues, distinguished by denser shades as they recede, and finally 

 terminate in the lofty serros of the country, gilded by the glowing rays 

 of an unclouded sun, reflected by an azure sky. They excite, at once, 

 our admiration and curiosity ; we exclaim, how charming ! but inquire, 

 who dwells there ? 



Close by one corner of the cathedral stands a sort of pillar, of 

 chiseled felt-spar, about four feet high above the ground, two broad, 

 and one thick. On its Eastern side are carved the arms of Portugal, on 

 the Western the insignia of the order of Christ. I suspect that it has 

 been brought from Bahia, and is probably the identical stone by which 

 possession of the country was taken for the crown of Portugal. It 

 must have been placed in its present situation when the natives had been 

 driven out, and the church of St. Sebastian erected. 



There are four parish churches in the city, of which that of St. 

 Joze is the oldest, situated just at the back of the palace, in the street to 

 which it gives name. The building is massive, but low, dark, and 

 damp; its principal entrance is from the West. The altar is neither 

 well- proportioned nor splendid ; the walls are painted with dark and 

 heavy looking colours, notwithstanding red, blue, and gold, are mixed 

 among them. 



