124 



NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



attention to decorum. In this case, the arrangement of the party at 

 table seemed strange to us; either the ladies were on one side, and the 

 men on the other ; or the wife seated herself next to her husband, having 

 on the other side of her a lady, and then the husband of the latter ; so 

 that two wives sit between their oAvn husbands ; a mode marking a 

 jealous precaution, but not unwise amongst such a hot-headed race. It 

 is a great proof of confidence, and of high respect for the party, if 

 unmarried ladies be introduced ; but this is a favour seldom conferred. 

 The master of the house takes the head of the table, and serves out the 

 provisions, which, on days unmarked in the calendar, are of various 

 sorts ; on sacred days, fish only is provided, dressed in different modes, 

 generally with a sufficient quantity of oil, yet not unpalatable. The 

 dishes are brought in pne by one, and a portion of each is handed to 

 every person in succession, none refusing, or beginning to eat before the 

 last is served ; then all begin together, and voraciously devour the con- 

 tents of their plates. 



They eat much, as well as greedily ; and though intent upon 

 their business, find time to be very noisy. The height of the table 

 brings the plate near to the chin ; every one spreads out his elbows, 

 and bringing his wrist close to the edge of the plate, tosses the food 

 into his mouth by a dexterous motion of the hand. On other accounts 

 as well as this, there is not much delicacy or cleanliness in the meal ; 

 plates are never changed, and are delivered to the servants with the knife 

 and fork held in the same hand ; the fingers, too, are as often used as the 

 fork. It is accounted a mark of strong attachment for a man to eat off 

 his neighbour's plate; so that 'the hands of both are not unfrequently 

 dipped into it at the same time. A vs^eak sort of red wine is used, but, 

 being drunk from tumblers, it sometimes operates powerfully ; before the 

 conclusion of the repast, the company become boisterous, their common 

 gesticulation in talking is increased, and they throw their arms about, 

 with their knives and forks, in such a way that a stranger feels no little 

 surprize, how eyes, noses, and cheeks, escape from injury. When the 

 knives and forks are at rest, one is grasped in either hand, and held 



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