NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



161 



World. In the streets of Maldonado he was accosted by an old man, 

 who inquired what he was seeking. Having informed him, partly in bad 

 Spanish, and partly by signs, he invited my friend into his house, 

 presented him politely to his family, and requested that he would wait a 

 little while. In ten minutes a female slave appeared, leading a fine 

 black horse, with a Spanish Lumbillio, or saddle, and splendid trappings. 

 The host inquired at what hour he would return; my friend, appre- 

 hensive that a longer absence might occasion some anxiety about the 

 horse and his furniture, fixed upon two hours as the extent of his excur- 

 sion. Returning about mid-day, he found his unknown benefactor 

 preparing a dinner for him, which he lamented was not ready, as, by a 

 natural mistake, the stranger was not expected until two o'clock. 



As to myself, disappointed of a ride, I strolled about unmolested, 

 and without observing any symptoms of that wonder which a loung- 

 ing stranger usually excites. The scene of my walks was exceedingly 

 dull; in the streets were few passengers, in the fields fewer traces of 

 human industry. I met only one person on horseback, and he enables 

 me to introduce a new character — a Gouger, or country farmer. He 

 rode a fine stallion, about sixteen hands high, light, and well made ; 

 and, one of my companions having then joined me, we united in 

 opinion that, in England, the horse would sell for eighty guineas. We 

 asked what his value might be there ; " I do not wish to sell him," was 

 the reply, " if I did, he would produce me, I think, two dollars." 

 This m&n may serve as a pattern of the farmers in the province of 

 Uruguay, and perhaps in some parts beyond it. He was a tall, erect, 

 athletic man, rather spare, with well proportioned and sinewy limbs. 

 He wore a Spanish Poncha over a waistcoat of calf-skin ; close to his 

 body a coarse cotton shirt, open at the breast and sleeves ; short cotton 

 trowsers ; on his head an old, slouched, high-crowned hat ; and on his 

 heels spurs, furnished with thick prongs, instead of rowels. On his feet 

 he had neither shoe, tamanca, nor sandal. But the most remarkable 

 part of his dress Was his boots, or rather stockings. Each of them 

 was made, as he informed us, of the skin of an embryo -calf) 



X 



