NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



out the slave to purchase a supper for ourselves and the horses. Our 

 host returned M'hile the supper was getting ready, and having welcomed 

 us in a noisy way, took, without scruple, a share of our provisions. 

 About midnight we spread our saddle-cloths on the earthen-floor, took our 

 saddles for pillows, and attempted to sleep, in which, with all the rude- 

 ness of our accommodations, we might have succeeded, had not the rats, 

 which here are large, as well as numerous, fixed upon the saddle-cloths as 

 their lawful prey ; and had we not continually annoyed each other by 

 our endeavours to drive off the assailants. In the morning the master 

 of the house was not to be found, and we were much disposed to suspect 

 something unfriendly on his part ; but the suspicion was, I believe, 

 unfounded, except in the circumstance of his absence ; the Brazilians 

 being seldom deficient in the duties of hospitality, though they may 

 have nothing to communicate but shelter. A few Peaches, gathered 

 fresh from the tree, proved a welcome addition to a breakfast made up of 

 some scanty savings from the evening's meal. 



A few miles from Povo Novo the country greatly improved, 

 exhibiting not only some fine pastures and stately trees, but also a few 

 Avell built farm-houses. I saw with especial interest droves of horses 

 grazing at large, and my own steed having become stiff or stubborn, 

 consulted with the guide whether we might not venture to exchange him 

 for a better. He entered at once into the plan, loosed his balls, and 

 advancing towards a drove, as it slowly passed before him, singled out his 

 object, and riding round a cluster, so as to place the individual in its 

 rear, he dashed at him, and threw the balls with unerring aim ; but one 

 of them, instead of wrapping round the horse's fore leg, struck him 

 violently below the knee, and made him halt. At this moment a man, 

 who proved to be the owner of the horses, galloped up to us full of 

 anger, and vehement in his threats. Had we seen him sooner we 

 certainly should have asked his consent to the exchange ; though, if our 

 guide had been a soldier, no such civility would have been thought 

 necessary ; on the contrary, the angry gentleman might, probably, have 

 been made to dismount, and surrender the horse on which he rode to my 



