NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



217 



spot. In a country so little enlivened by variety, this assemblage forms 

 one of its most rural and pleasant scenes. 



The traveller in this country may generally find something to eat at 

 the small Vendas, or hucksters' houses, which are found near the most 

 frequented chapels. But he must not depend upon them, as they are 

 miserable hovels, thinly scattered, and frequently shut up. His chief 

 dependence must be on the hospitality of the inhabitants ; and it will be 

 concluded, from what has already appeared, that this dependence is well 

 founded. To avail himself of this resource he will, however, find it 

 necessary to use a little management. He is expected to take breakfast 

 where he passes the night ; coffee and milk are early prepared ; to suffer 

 a guest to depart without it would be considered as a want of hospitality 

 on the part of the host, to decline partaking of it would be construed 

 into incivility on that of the guests. He must then contrive to reach 

 the next friendly abode at or before mid-day ; for, however welcome a 

 stranger may be, the master of a house seldom thinks of ordering a table 

 to be set out at any but the usual hours ; nevertheless at these every one 

 present, if a white man, is welcomed, and partakes with the family. 



In travelling here two of us halted, about ten o'clock in the fore- 

 noon, at the house of a person who professed himself, and doubtless was 

 our very sincere friend. A change of horses, which we had requested, 

 was readily granted ; and, while the fresh ones were in a state of prepa- 

 ration, he invited us to seat ourselves by him in the shade, near to an 

 out-house ; he never dreamed of asking whether we wished for refresh- 

 ment, and it was quite by accident that we Avere introduced into his 

 dwelling. There his wife and daughter, who iiad seated them- 

 selves beside and pleased us by this unusual mark of confidence, 

 soon discovered that, having left home very early, a lunch would not be 

 unacceptable. It consisted of a Melancia, brought in upon a large silver 

 dish, followed by another of the same metal, bearing cups of milk. 

 We partook freely of both, although, to English appetites, the food 

 appeared neither sufficiently solid nor very palatable. It served us, how- 



