266 



NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



perhaps, some of tlie finest displays of varied scenery which were ever 

 presented to the human eye. 



This highly cultivated spot exhibits a striking contrast to what a 

 few years ago was the state of the country on which we immediately 

 enter. Passing over the plain near Pedregulho, 1 then found the road 

 embarrassed with stumps of trees, or rather there was no road at all, but 

 various mule tracks, along which every passenger made his way in the 

 best manner he could. Now the forest is extirpated, the land divided 

 and fenced with luxuriant hedge-rows,^ many houses are erected, and the 

 haunts of wild beasts converted into prosperous settlements of men. It 

 is somewhat curious to recollect, that in 1796, one of the passengers by 

 the Duff, riding to this small distance from the city, found himself beyond 

 the limits of civilization, and even of military protection. He was 

 attacked by persons who attempted to catch him with the lasso, and was 

 obliged to gallop' for his life. What a rapid change in the state of 

 society ! Who can contemplate such improvement without pleasure ! who 

 without astonishment can recollect that it extends nearly round the whole 

 coast of South America. 



The first strangers who travelled in this country, appear to have 

 considered the water as a sort of guarantee of their safety, and therefore 

 kept near it as much and as long as they could. Following their usual 

 course, we crossed the Maricana, or Rio Faria, a stream which, issuing^ 

 from the mountains, sometimes bears down all opposition. Man)'^ have 

 perished, who trusted too much to their knowledge of the ford, or the 

 strength of their horses, and a bridge thrown across the torrent a few 

 years ago, was quickly hurled away. From this spot a gently waving, 

 rich, and pleasant country presents itself, well adapted for Sugar Cane 

 or Mandioca ; but the vicinity of the Capital converts, it to a different 

 purpose. 



At Venda Grande, seven miles from the city, the road divides ; the 

 branch to the right leads to Minas Geraes, and the North-Western parts 

 of the Continent ; the other, which we follow, conducts to St. Paul's and 

 the South-West. It winds at the base of small, woody hills, until it 



