NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



273 



decay. It is the property of Ecclesiastics resident in the city, whose 

 slaves are permitted to act with a licentiousness not much short of that 

 of banditti. This establishment is celebrated for its grapes and figs ; the 

 former were allowed to be cultivated at Angra, when the vine was 

 universally interdicted to laics ; and the figs furnish evidence of a happy 

 climate or superior skill. The elevation of the place, which is four thou- 

 sand feet above the sea, is favourable to both. 



Many civilized Indians reside in this district. Passing through one 

 of their villages, we found the people sitting under alcoves, placed in 

 front of their huts, dressed in all the finery which the cheapness of 

 British goods had introduced among them. They are commonly addicted 

 to ceremonious civility ; yet we received from them, at our first appear- 

 ance, none of the honours usually paid to strangers. Determined to 

 discover, if possible, the cause of such neglect, I pushed forward a little 

 before my companions, and passing a hut, in front of which were seated 

 an old man and several young people, took off my hat. All of them 

 immediately rose, bowed respectfully, and the example was followed 

 through the whole remaining line of habitations. 



I have no high regard for such a ceremony, but fancy that it is 

 capable of expressing the sentiments of the individual by whom it is 

 performed. Among the peasantry of Brazil, I have usually found it 

 something as different from the obtrusive sycophancy of the South of 

 England, as from the rudeness of the North. It expresses here a degree 

 of kindness towards strangers and a sort of welcome to the spot. Nor 

 can a person rightly appreciate human manners, I think, who remains 

 unmoved when a child pays his respects with the sweet smile of inno^ 

 cence, and, extending his hand, pronounces the words " Aben<;;oa me," 

 In thus asking a blessing, — whether it arise from the euphony of the 

 words or the manner of the young petitioner in uttering them, I know 

 not, — there is something v/hich awakens the best feelings of the heart. 



To the North-west of Paraty lies the great Serro of Bocaina, or 



Sucaina, which formerly communicated the name of Buccaneers to a 



certain description of men, and was itself derived frcvn a practice of the 



M m 



