308 NOTES ON BRAZIL* 



endeavouring to make the most of the few comforts within our reach, 

 when a plain man introduced himself, saying that we must go to his 

 master's house, who would be much displeased if an Englishman wanted 

 accommodatioife in St. Gonzales, while his house was not full. We 

 wanted little persuasion to change our lodgings ; our horses and supper 

 were quickly removed ; the former were provided for in the Varanda, 

 and well supplied with the stems of the Mandioca plant ; we wanted 

 little besides shelter. Food was offered to us, such as is usually provided 

 for the Bailiff and slaves on a farm ; but we were permitted, as is always 

 usual, to indulge ourselves with something better at our own expense. 



Early the next morning, to gratify our friend, the Feitor, as he is 

 here called, though with some inconvenience to ourselves, we rode ovUl 

 the farm, and found it in excellent order, with good crops of Mandioca, 

 Milho, Abobaras, Water-melons, and Pulse. The fruit-trees, though 

 still small, were under good management ; all of them had been grafted 

 or budded with judgment, and many experiments were in process, in 

 which the stems of one kind of fruit were employed, and the branches or 

 buds of another. 



Passing through St. Gonzales, with a friend, in a subsequent 

 journey, we stopped at a door, which we saw open, to beg a draught of 

 water, — a refreshment which always can be legally claimed by a stranger 

 from them who have it. A civil invitation immediately followed to 

 alight and avail ourselves of the shade for a time, which we thankfully 

 accepted. An hour was beguiled with cheerful conversation, when the 

 season of dinner approached, and we were pressed with so much courtesy 

 and earnestness to partake of the meal as to leave little room for a 

 refusal. About ten persons were at table, all of the class of substantial 

 planters or small landholders. In such society the greatest stranger is 

 usually placed at the head of the table, the master sometimes taking a 

 station near him, and the wife standing behind her husband's seat, to 

 direct the servants in their duty. Each dish, as it is brought in, is 

 handed to the stranger, who helps himself, and frequently the rest of the 

 party ; none of them, however, begins to eat, until he sets them the 



