NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



S2S 



Avants than those of the horses. The native gramma does not grow 

 under trees, and, in the cleared spots, it spreads itself so flat on the 

 ground as to require more time to crop it than can, in general, be con- 

 veniently spared. In this spot we sought in vain for the Tacoara, of 

 the young branches of which horses are commonly fond, and could not 

 prevail upon them to accept of any substitute besides the sprouts of the 

 fan-leaved Palm, and of this they ate reluctantly and sparingly. 



During our progress through this solitude, though the wind was 

 high, we suspected that the noise which Ve heard was not occasioned 

 solely by its action on the trees, but by the distant roaring of a surf. 

 This opinion was confirmed when, on approaching the great river St. 

 Joan, we found it covered with foam. The excessive heat, and the 

 fatigued state of the horses, induced us to take up with tlie shelter 

 afforded by a shed erected for the convenience of passengers, and to 

 defer an attempt to cross the river, here a mile and a half broad. We 

 sent our guide over to the town, prettily situated on the opposite bank, 

 for provisions ; but he effected his passage with difficulty, and, on his 

 landing, was seized, for presuming to cross without a passport. A man, 

 who chanced to know the poor fellow, interfered successfully for his 

 release, and sent* us over the necessary supplies. On the passage 

 becoming somewhat easier we crossed, not in the most placid humour, as 

 we expected to meet with some of the insolence of office. Of this, 

 however, we had less than we looked for ; though we were conducted to 

 the only licensed landing-place, and huddled, with our baggage, into a 

 filthy apartment, under guard of some ill looking and equally dirty 

 soldiers. Here we were detained, because the Superintendent was asleep, 

 and no one could presume to disturb him. We remonstrated, however, 

 so freely and loudly, that our complaint, either directly or indirectly, 

 reached his Excellency's ears, and the surrounding multitude was 

 astonished that he condescended to come so soon to our release. His 

 approach, though he came in state, preceded by his subalterns, overcame 

 my respect for high stations, and those who fill them, and produced a 

 most indecorous fit of laughter ; for I immediately recognized an old 



