NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



335 



experienced sailor, a native of Oporto, and the crew consisted of four 

 stout negroes. I had for my companion a gentleman who amused himself 

 by taking sketches of scenery, with a Camera Obscura; and a negro 

 servant, who officiated as our cook. The launch had a toldo, or fixed 

 covering, and oil-cloth curtains, which drew around it. 



The day before Chiistmas, 1816, we left the city, and stood with a 

 fine breeze up the Western side of the middle bay, and passing Ponta 

 Caju, and the islands of Pinheiro and Frades, ran close to the rock of 

 Pedrahuma ; which seems to have been fatal to navigators, as there is on 

 it a substantial cross, serving at once as a beacon, and a memento to pray 

 for the souls which had gone from this spot to purgatory. About a mile 

 farther we landed on a small island, set up our Camera Obscura, and 

 began to boil our kettle, but were quickly admonished by our Captain, 

 that heavy weather was coming on, and that it was adviseable to seek a 

 more sheltered station for the boat. I was the only one who had not 

 been able to take advantage of this warning, when the storm burst, and 

 drove the boat to leeward. I made signals that she should go round the 

 point, and there take me in ; but on endeavouring to do so, she was 

 thrown on a sand bank, and remained immoveable. On a naked beach 



» 



without shelter or company, I was compelled therefore to " abide the 

 pelting of the pitiless storm ;" the rain fell in torrents, the lightning 

 was forked and vivid, the thunder rattled with tremendous grandeur, the 

 sea roared and the wind howled in concert ; seldom, even in the torrid 

 zone, have I witnessed a scene more gratifying, as well as awful. — 

 When the sea subsided and the tide ebbed, the bank was left dry, and 

 we passed the night in comfort. 



Next morning we got into deep water, near the Eastern end of the 

 Ilha do Governador. At this point is a small, handsome house, belonging 

 to the Baron of Rio Secco ; the first of the kind erected in Brazil, and 

 a place which the Regent visited v^^ith pleasure, when he had no house of 

 his own in the country half so good. The Baron is a man of intrigue, and 

 has risen from a low station in the Palace of Lisbon, to enjoy the confidence 

 of the Sovereign, and to dictate in the public councils. The island has 



