NOTES ON BRAZIL. S99 



As we moved toward the ferry, where the whole troop was to 

 assemble before any one crossed, my guide requested that I would treat 

 the Intendente, or Governor, with all due ceremony, and particularly 

 that I would discharge ray pistols and fowling-piece out of hearing of 

 the Register, as it would appear disrespectful to a military station to 

 carry arms loaded, whilst under its protection. This advice he enforced 

 by expressing a doubt whether my passport w^ould be admitted, for he 

 had never seen one like it, and was afraid, if rejected, that I should be 

 sent back to Rio under a military escort. 



The boat used at this ferry is admirably constructed for its purpose. 

 It brought over twenty-five loaded mules, and the mode of stepping into, 

 and out of it, is rendered easy to them by two inclined planes of wood, 

 one laid within the boat, the other on the beach. I crossed with 

 the first opportunity, and being determined not to remain in unnecessary 

 suspense, went straight to the Register, and presented my passport to 

 an officer, who carried it to the great man, stationed in an inner room. 

 He quickly returned, gave up my important document, politely wel- 

 comed me to the banks of the Parahyba, and said that I was at perfect 

 liberty to go where 1 pleased. My guide, whose business had detained 

 him on the other side, was astonished to see me wandering about heedless, 

 as he thought, of his good advice, and came over purposely to renew his 

 intreaties that I would show no disrespect to the Governor ; with great 

 difficulty he was led to believe that I had already presented myself, and 

 been dismissed with civility. 



The place contains, besides the Register and Rancho, a few mud 

 huts, among which I was, as usual, seeking a dinner, for though capable 

 of living hardly as most men, I was not then averse to a comfortable 

 meal if I could find one, and intended, if possible, to surprise my kind 

 and attentive guide, with a petty festival. For this purpose I engaged 

 with a man, whose sharp features, smooth forehead, and sprightly 

 eye, announced a superior degree of intelligence, and w^ho seemed, from 

 his easy and polished manners, to have witnessed better days, that he 

 should provide for us the best dinner he could, and set it out in a small 



