NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



455 



airyness to the town which it would otherwise want. In the midst of 

 it runs a wide shallow stream, over which are thrown two good stone 

 bridges. There is no public market-place, and the shops are generally 

 small and dark, destitute of windows like those of Rio de Janeiro, and 

 for the most part well furnished with goods. 



Among the Churches, thirteen in number, there is a sort of Metro- 

 politan, situated near the principal street, and built in Teipe, or Paysan, 

 which, notwithstanding its mean exterior, contains some extraordinary 

 ornaments. On the right side of the Altar is a beautiful copy, from 

 one of the old masters, of the Last Supper ; on the left is an equally 

 beautiful representation of Mary washing the feet of Jesus, and, in 

 compartments beneath them, are some tolerable paintings, from bad 

 designs, of the falling Manna in the Wilderness, and other subjects 

 taken from the Old Testament. The ceiling of this Church, which is 

 arched, has lately been painted at the sole charge of a merchant in the 

 town. The colours are excellent, but do not harmonize among them- 

 selves, and, being composed chiefly of red, yellow, and blue, appear 

 gaudy, and correspond only with the BraziUan taste. In the centre is a 

 figure of the patron Saint, Nossa Senhora de Pilar, and the Arms of 

 Portugal; above the cornice, on the right, occupying the whole length 

 of the nave, are the Four Evangelists, and alternately with them an 

 angel, standing in a sort of projecting pulpit, while their subordinate 

 coadjutors in the salvation of men, occupying less conspicuous stations, 

 are placed in recesses. Immediately over the Orchestra, and under the 

 protection of St. John, the artist has contrived to introduce a portrait of 

 the gentleman at whose expense the work was executed. On the 

 opposite side of the ceiling, and the left of the altar, are subjects of a 

 different kind. There appear representations of Priests and Friars, with 

 allegorical allusions to visions and divine communications with which 

 they were favoured. The idea of inspiration is expressed in this singular 

 manner : — from a small cloud proceeds a speaking-trumpet, whose sound, 

 represented by strong yellow rays, falls directly upon the ear of the 

 priest to whom the supernatural information is addressed. The young 



