NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



495 



to Gentlemen of the country when they receive a guest. She was sister 

 to a Merchant of Rio, who, having heard that I was going to Villa 

 Rica, very handsomely sent after me to St. John, letters of introduction, 

 and to this circumstance doubtless was owing my favourable reception 

 with the Lady. She amused us with anecdotes of preceding travellers, 

 both English and French, and gave us descriptions of their manners, 

 of what she thought to be their characters and views. Among others 

 were mentioned two Spanish Carmelite Friars, not unknown to me, who 

 having occasion to go to Lima, chose the route through Goyaz and 

 Mato Grosso, rather than encounter the risk of falling in at sea with 

 Privateers from the Plata ; thus prefering a journey which they said 

 would occupy two years, partly through a long tract of almost unpene- 

 trated forest, exposed to the ferocious attacks of savages and wild beasts, 

 to a voyage of fourteen days, with some little danger of becoming 

 prisoners to innovaters in religious and civil polity. They had, how- 

 ever, the pleasure of magnifying the evils, and spreading widely a 

 rumour of the perils, which their prudence had enabled them to escape. 

 — How different are the objects of pleasiu'e among mankind ! How 

 various the sources of their fears ! 



The Sun rose splendidly the following morning, and at seven 

 o'clock the thermometer stood at 54°. It was Sunday, and had more the 

 appearance of an English day of religious observance than any which 

 I had lately witnessed. Our Hostess, when I met her after breakfast, 

 was dressed for mass, and ready to mount her horse, only waiting our 

 departure. Hesitating whether I ought to consider her in the light of 

 an innkeeper, and to offer payment for our accommodations, I left the 

 business in the hands of the guide, who was never backward to officiate 

 as paymaster. In this instance, however, after a great deal of manoeuv- 

 ring in the case, he was completely outwitted ; for, though a charge was 

 made, it was so extremely low, as to preclude every idea of its being 

 considered as a remuneration. 1 could not but take notice of the lady's 

 politeness, and many compliments passed between us, which were 

 terminated by her presenting me, after the manner of her country, with 



