I 



500 NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



seemed to me to have a more than common measure of expression, and 

 of that cast particularly which demands — " am I to be a friend or foe ?" 

 He was manifestly capable of being either. There was occasionally a 

 servility in his manner, but in general it was hardly civil, and showed his 

 total want of refinement ; in what I desired most, however, freedom of 

 communication, he was not deficient. He quickly informed me, that 

 notice of my arrival must be sent to the Ouvidor ; and Antonio 

 posted away to the Governor, with the same important intelligence. 



As I passed shortly afterwards along the balcony, having left the 

 door of my room open, this Maitre de Hotel observed that circumstance, 

 and loudly called after me, in no very respectful terms, — " what, a fool 

 you must be to leave your door open." I turned and replied, — " what 

 does that signify ? have you thieves here ?" " Yes," said he, " thousands, 

 you cannot leave your door thus for a moment, without being robbed." 

 I then observed that all the other doors and shutters were carefully 

 closed, that not one portable article was left any where exposed, and that 

 large boxes with strong locks and keys were appropriated for their 

 security. The ill impression, thus received, was confirmed on the return 

 of my guide ; and, of course, I kept myself more on my guard than 

 was previously supposed to be necessary. 



Villa Rica is, perhaps, one of the most singularly situated places 

 on the face of the earth ; nothing less powerful than the love of Gold 

 could have raised a large town on such a spot. Yet are its streets res- 

 pectable in their appearance, and more particularly so in their pavement. 

 One of them stretches across several projections of the mountain in a 

 straight line, and is nearly two miles in length. Of two thousand houses, 

 which the place contains, one-fifth, perhaps, are good ones ; the rest are 

 slightly built. All of them are white-washed externally ; a circum- 

 stance, which marks the prevalence of lime in the neighbourhood. 

 The bridges are numerous, and some of them well built; crossing 

 streams, which flow rapidly down from the mountains. The public 

 fountains, fourteen in number, are scattered through the town ; they 

 are, in general, noble structures, and supplied with an abundance of 

 pure water. 



