536 



NOTES ON BRAZIL. 



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Conformably to the plan arranged, we took advantage of a moon 

 then approaching her last quarter, and proceeded, in a dark and damp 

 morning, over some barren and elevated land, to the head of a small 

 stream, on the bank of which we descended rapidly, until, at the 

 end of nine miles, at a place called Borda do Campo, the edge of the 

 open country, we re-entered upon the region of trees. I confess that the 

 sight of them, as they darkly shadowed through the dawn and the mist, 

 gave me pleasure. So soon are we tired of uniformity ! so readily pleased 

 with change ! As the morning drew on, the fog was dissolved apace ; the 

 torrent had become considerable, and the roar of its waters, mingled 

 with the clank of the Araponga and the screech of other birds, produced 

 a singular sort of harmonious discord. During the darkness too, we had 

 been translated from the wild wastes of a desert to scenes, in which the 

 Naiads might revel at their ease. All nature was dripping; but 

 seemed to rise from her morning bath refreshed, and exulting in 

 her vigour. 



At this point, the Mountain of Juruocca showed itself on the right, 

 a large, isolated mass, and though remote, formed no inconsiderable 

 feature of the landscape. Wonderful tales are told concerning it, origin- 

 ating probably in some unusual natural appearances and sounds. The 

 rocking stones on its surface astonish those who touch them ; its caverns 

 resound with subterraneous noises ; and it is confidently asserted, that 

 when artillery is fired at Rio, the report is distinctly heard in this distant 

 region. There, also, rises the Rio Grande, a genuine wonder, though 

 not adding to the prevailing impressions. This river, according to 

 general report, after becoming a large stream, is absorbed by the soil of 

 very extensive plains, under whose surface it makes its way, and clothes 

 the ground with a rich, perennial verdure. Some maintained, that 

 previous to being thus absorbed, the stream had flowed a hundred and 

 fifty miles, that on the border of the Province, it again becomes visible, 

 in a contracted form, and takes the name of Para, but one Gentleman 

 said he crossed these plains in going from St. John D' El Rey to St. 



