296 



A VOYAGE TO 



as we do, but the women are fond of wearing black, 

 when they go abroad. The fashion of dress, in both 

 sexes, I am informed, has undergone great improve- 

 ment, since their free intercourse with strangers. The 

 old Spaniards, of whom there are considerable num- 

 bers, are easily distinguished by their darker com- 

 plexion, the studied shabbiness of their dress, and the 

 morose and surly expression of countenance; this 

 arises, from their being treated as a sort of Jews, by 

 those whom they were wont to consider as greatly 

 their inferiors. They are also distinguished by not 

 mounting the blue and white cockade, which is uni- 

 versally worn by the citizens of the republic. The 

 same number of Chinese, could scarcely form a class 

 more distinct from the rest of the community. There 

 can hardly be a greater affront offered to an Jlmeri- 

 cano del Sud, than to call him a Spaniard. A young 

 fellow told me, in a jesting way, that the monks, 

 friars, and Spaniards, were generally old, and would 

 soon die off, which he said was a great consolation. 



I went round to several of the churches, of which 

 there are ten or fifteen throughout the city. I shall not 

 trouble the reader with a description of them, as by re- 

 ferring to books he can learn their names, and the years 

 in which they were founded. All I shall say, is, that 

 those I saw, were immense masses of buildings, parti- 

 cularly the cathedral, which of itself covers almost a 

 whole square. The internal decorations are generally 

 rich and splendid, and the pomp of catholic worship is 

 displayed here, pretty much as it is in other parts of 

 the world. My attention was more attracted, by the 

 crowds of beautiful women, going and coming to the 

 churches, and the graceful elegance of their carriage. 



