( 88 ) 



CHAP. VI. 



Coasting Voyage from Santos to Zapitiva, and Journey thence to Rio 



de Janeiro. 



left St. Paul's at ten in the morning, and took the same road 

 y to Santos by which we had come, there being no other, fit to 

 travel. On the following day, before noon, we arrived at Cuberton, 

 where we were detained by rain, until four in the afternoon. About 

 seven we arrived at Santos, and as we were provided with a letter 

 of introduction to a judge, and another to a merchant, we relied on 

 a kinder welcome than we had met with on our first visit, the more 

 so as we came from St. Paul's. We were, however, deceived. The 

 judge received us coldly, and when I asked him where the person 

 lived to whom our other letter was addressed, he seemed quite re- 

 joiced at the opportunity for shewing us out of his house. The 

 merchant was as frigid as the judge, and made us a paltry excuse. 

 We then repaired to an apothecary, from whom we had experienced 

 some acts of attention, and who had attended one of our friends, 

 who, having left St. Paul's in a bad state of health, had waited here 

 three weeks for a passage to Rio de Janeiro. After telling him our 

 situation, and stating that the wet weather prevented us from pass- 

 ing the night in our canoe, he kindly offered us his shop-floor for a 

 lodging, it being the only place under cover he had to spare. We 

 commissioned him to offer four dollars to any of his neighbours who 

 would admit us for the night, but he said it would be of no avail, as 

 the people of Santos were proverbially notorious for their want of 

 hospitality. The great influx of strangers and renegadoes from all 

 nations into this and other towns on the coast, had completely 

 steeled the hearts of the people against those claims on their good- 



