( 98 ) 



is estimated at a hundred thousand souls : the dwellings are generally 

 of one story only. 



The numerous convents and churches are well built, and rather 

 handsome ; the cathedral, n6w nearly finished, is in a superior style 

 of architecture. The streets were formerly incommoded by latticed 

 balconies, which had a very heavy appearance and obstructed the 

 circulation of the air, but they have been taken away by order of 

 Government. The greatest nuisances now remaining are those 

 which arise from the custom of persons of all ranks on horseback to 

 ride on the foot-paths, and from the preposterous hanging of shop 

 and house doors, which all open outward into the street, to the great 

 annoyance of foot-passengers : I may also add the frequent pools of 

 stagnant water which, from the lowness of the site, cannot without 

 much labour be drained away, and which, through the heat of th€ 

 weather, emit the most putrid exhalations. Water for the use of the 

 city flows from the hills through aqueducts, and is distributed to 

 several fountains in various public places.- It is to be regretted that 

 there are not more of these for the supply of the inhabitants, num- 

 bers of whom live a mile distant from any of them, and are obliged 

 to employ persons continually. in carrying Avater : many of the poorer 

 classes earn a living by selling it. The fountains in dry weather are 

 frequently so crowded, that the carriers have to wait for hours before 

 they can be supplied. The water is good, and, when kept in large 

 jars, drinks cool and pleasant. The inns and public houses are 

 almost destitute of accommodations, and so very uncomfortable that 

 a stranger will not reside in them if he can find a friend to take him 

 invii House-rent in general is equally high as in London, owing, it 

 should seem, to the dearness of building materials and the high price 

 of masonry. Timber in particular is unaccountably scarce, consider-^ 

 ing the quantity which grows in almost every part of Brazil ; even 

 fire-wood is dear. Provisions are in general plentiful, but not very 

 choice in quality : the beef is very indifferent, and indeed bad ; the 

 pork is better, and, if the feeding were properly attended to, might 



