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each side, and the men were obhged to push her along with poles. 

 At day-break we reached Porto dos Caxhes, a place of great resort 

 from the interior, being the station where the mules discharge their 

 loads of produce from the many plantations in the neighbourhood. 

 The town consists of several poor houses, and of stores where goods 

 are deposited for embarkation. The stratum hereabouts is primitive 

 granite, covered with fine strong clay. Leaving this place, we pro- 

 (ieeded for some distance and came to a large swamp, which wC 

 navigated in a canoe, with very little difficulty, and shortly after- 

 wards arrived at the village of Maccacu. It stands on a small 

 eminence in the midst of a fine plain, watered by a considerable 

 stream, over which there are two good bridges. Though almost at 

 the base of the chain of mountains that forms a barrier along the 

 coast, the neighbourhood affords some fine situations ; the land in 

 general consists of a strong clay, but appears much worn out. The 

 commander. Colonel Jose, to whom I introduced myself, gave me a 

 very polite reception, as did also the brethren of the convent, to whom 

 I paid a visit. I passed the night at the house of the Escrivano, a 

 worthy gentleman, whose hospitality I still remember with peculiar 

 gratitude, because it seemed to proceed, not from a cold sense of 

 duty, but from the impulse of a warm and generous heart. 



On the following day, being accommodated by the colonel with a 

 horse and guide, I proceeded along the winding banks of the river, 

 which in many places present most beautiful views. Here was more 

 cultivated land than I expected to see ; but the sugar-plantations, 

 and, in general, the low pasture-grounds, are quite neglected. We 

 passed several farms belonging to convents, which, from their appa- 

 rent condition, and the accounts we received, do little more than 

 maintain the negroes and incumbents upon them. There was rarely 

 a milch cow to be met with ; pigs and poultry were equally scarce. 

 The population of these fine valleys is deplorably thin and poor ; 

 there was a general sickliness in the looks of the women and children 

 we met with, which may be imputed to their miserable diet and 



