( 151 ) 



take. We\Vere the more sensible of this act of hospitality, because 

 it evidently proceeded from sincere good-will ; and, like the widow's 

 mite, derived additional merit from the smallness of the store which 

 supplied the means of performing it. Their establishment seemed 

 barely provided with necessaries ; and the house in which they lived 

 was ill built and scantily furnished. We could not but smile at the 

 earnestness with which one of these worthy ladies complained of thq 

 hardness of the times ; they paid, she observed, a moidore every three 

 years in taxes. How happy, thought we, would our English spinsters 

 of slender incomes deem themselves in being so lightly assessed ! 



We passed the evening tolerably, having provided ourselves with 

 candles, which we found very necessary both here and in other 

 places on the road ; for the rooms in general are lighted only by a 

 glimmering lamp, which rather augments than diminishes their me- 

 lancholy gloom. 



In the morning we were informed that the mules which had been 

 provided for us over-night were taken away from the stable. This so en- 

 raged our soldier, that he immediately rode in quest of them, brought 

 them back, and pressed others for our service. We here saw the 

 convenience of travelling under official orders : had we not been so pro- 

 vided, we might have been exposed to a most vexatious delay. These 

 military requisitions of cattle may be considered by the owner as a 

 grievance ; but he generally indemnifies himself by high charges to 

 other travellers, and by impositions in the way of trade. 



Being now within the province of Minas Geraes, (a country famed 

 at Rio de Janeiro for its excellent cheese,) I expected to see some 

 improvement in the condition of the country, — some establishment 

 worthy of being called a farm, — some dwelhng, constructed not 

 merely for shelter but for comfort. I hoped to remark among the in- 

 habitants that air of health and animation which springs from the in- 

 vigorating occupations and cheering pursuits of husbandry ; but no 

 such pleasing change was perceptible : the same want of exertion 

 prevailed here as in other parts of the country : the people seemed 



