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to Rio, under an agreement with the carrier, giving him half or 

 sometimes two-thirds of the proceeds, with a promise of back-car- 

 riage of salt, iron, and other commodities. 



Owing to the kind assiduities of my worthy host, the evening 

 passed very agreeably. Many of the neighbours came to see and 

 converse with me, as I was the first Englishman, or perhaps foreigner, 

 who had ever travelled so far into the interior. Their curiosity led 

 them to examine almost every implement I carried %ith me ; my 

 saddle, bridle, and stirrups were viewed with great attention ; nor 

 could they imagine how it was possible to sit in the former with any 

 degree of safety. There was no convincing them that it was much 

 preferable to the Portugueze saddle, which has a ridge about eight 

 inches high, both before and behind, so that the rider is, as it were, 

 in the stocks, and, though not so liable to be thrown out, has a most 

 galling and uncomfortable seat. 



The next morning I visited the negroes' houses, and was much 

 pleased to find one set apart for the reception of poor and distressed 

 travelling negroes, who here find a fatherly protection, and are allowed 

 to stay as long a time as may suit their necessities. On taking leave 

 of the good old gentleman, I could not prevail on him to accept any 

 remuneration for his kindness, and he replied to my thanks with the 

 warmest assurances of welcome. I crossed a fine stream, and rode 

 through several plantations of sugar-cane, which were at this season 

 nearly ready for cutting. The country, as we proceeded, gradually 

 became more mountainous, and abounded with argillaceous schistus 

 very full of quartz. After riding about sixteen miles, we saw a very 

 singular mountain, or bare rock of granite, called Itamb^, forming 

 part of a high ridge which lay on our left. About four o'clock we 

 arrived at a poor village, also called Itambe, situated near a fine 

 river of the same name. This place was formerly of some conse- 

 quence, but as the gold in its vicinity failed, it sunk into poverty and 

 wretchedness. It contains about a thousand inhabitants, who, de- 

 graded to the lowest stage of inactive apathy, looked as if they were 



9 



