PRIMITIVE COSTUMES. 



57 



sleep. I endeavoured to do the same. I called to 

 mind the proverb, that travelling makes strange bed- 

 fellows.'' I had slept pellmell with Greeks, Turks, 

 and Arabs. I was beginning a journey in a new coun- 

 try ; it was my duty to conform to the customs of the 

 people ; to be prepared for the worst, and submit with 

 resignation to whatever might befall me. 



As guests, it was pleasant to feel that the family made 

 no strangers of us. The wife of the don retired with the 

 same ceremonies. Several times during the night we 

 were waked by the clicking of flint and steel, and saw 

 one of our neighbours lighting a cigar. At daylight 

 the wife of the don was enjoying her morning slumber. 

 While I was dressing she bade me good-morning, re- 

 moved the cotton covering from her shoulders, and 

 arose dressed for the day. 



We started early, and for some distance our road 

 lay along the banks of the Motagua, almost as beauti- 

 ful by morning as by evening light. In an hour we 

 commenced ascending the spur of a mountain ; and, 

 reaching the top, followed the ridge. It was high and 

 narrow, commanding on both sides an almost bound- 

 less view, and seemed selected for picturesque effect. 

 The scenery was grand, but the land wild and unculti- 

 vated, without fences, enclosures, or habitations. A 

 few cattle were wandering wild over the great expanse, 

 but without imparting that domestic aspect which in 

 other countries attends the presence of cattle. We met 

 a few Indians, with their machetes, going to their morn- 

 ing's work, and a man riding a mule, with a woman 

 before him, his arm encircling her waist. 



I was riding ahead of my companions, and on the 

 summit of the ridge, a little aside from the road, saw 

 a little white girl, perfectly naked, playing before a 



Vol. I.— H 



