CONTENTS. 



vii 



CHAPTER XIL 



Party to Mixco. — A Scene of Pleasure. — Procession in Honour of the Patron 

 Saint of Mixco. — Fireworks.— A Bombardment. — Smoking Segars, — A Niglit- 

 brawl. — Suffering and Sorrow. — A Cockfight. — A Walk in the Suburbs. — Sun- 

 day Amusements.— Return to the City Page 251 



CHAPTER Xni. 



Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean.— San Pablo.— Mountain Scene- 

 ry. — El Rio Pensativo. — La Antigua.— Account of its Destruction. — An Octo- 

 genarian. — The Cathedral. — San Juan Obispo. — Santa Maria. — Volcano de 

 Agua.— Ascent of the Mountain. — The Crater. — A lofty Meeting-place. — The 

 Descent.— Return to La Antigua.— Cultivation of Cochineal.— Classic Ground, 

 — Ciudad Vieja.— Its Foundation.— Visit from Indians.— Departure from Ciudad 

 Vieja.— First Sight of the Pacific— Alotenango.—Volcan del Fuega.— Escuint- 

 la.— rSunset Scene.— Masagua.— Port of Istapa.— Arrival at the Pacific . 264 



CHAPTER XIV. 



The Return. — Hunt for a Mule. — Overo. — Masagua. — Escuintla. — Falls of San 

 Pedro Martyr. — Michetoya River. — Village of San Pedro. — A Major-domo. — 

 San Cristoval. — Amatitan. — A roving American. — Entry into Guatimala. — Let- 

 ter from Mr. Catherwood. — Christmas Eve. — Arrival of Mr. Catherwood. — 

 Plaza de Toros.— A Bullfight— The Theatre.— Official Business.— The Aris- 

 tocracy of Guatimala.— State of the Country.— Newyear's Day.— Ferocity of 

 Party 290 



CHAPTER XV. 



Hunt for a Government. — Diplomatic Difficulties. — Departure from Guatimala. 

 — Lake of Amatitan, — Attack of Fever and Ague. — Overo. — Istapa. — A French 

 Merchant Ship. — Port of Acajutla. — Illness. — Zonzonate. — The Government 

 found. — Visit to the Volcano of Izalco. — Course of the Eruptions. — Descent 

 from the Volcano 310 



CHAPTER XVI. 



Sickness and Mutiny.— Illness of Captain Jay.— Critical Situation.— Rough 

 Nursing. — A Countryman in Trouble. — Dolphins. — Succession of Volcanoes. 

 —Gulf of Nicoya,— Harbour of Caldera.— Another Countryman.— Another 

 Patient. — Hacienda of San Felippe. — Mountain of Aguacate. — " Zillenthal 

 Patent Self-acting Cold Amalgamation Machine."— -Gold Mines.— View from 

 the Mountain Top 331 



CHAPTER XVII. 



La Garita,— Alihuela.— A friendly People.— Heredia.— Rio Segondo,— Coffee- 

 plantations of San Jos6.— The Sacrament for the Dying.— A happy Meeting.— 

 Travelling Embarrassments.— Quarters in a Convent.— Senor Carillo, Chief of 



