AN UNGRACIOUS HOST. 



93 



lying on the reputation of the country for hospitality, 

 and the proof of it which we had already met with, I 

 was rather slow in coming to the disagreeable conclu- 

 sion that we were not welcome. This conclusion, how- 

 ever, was irresistible. The don was not pleased with 

 our looks. I ordered the muleteer to saddle the mules ; 

 but the rascal enjoyed our confusion, and positively re- 

 fused to saddle his beasts again that day. "We applied 

 to Don Gregorio himself, offering to pay him ; and, as 

 Augustin said, in the hope of getting rid of us, he lent 

 us two, on which to ride back to the village. Unfortu- 

 nately, the guide we sought was away ; a brisk cock- 

 fight was then pending, and we received no encourage- 

 ment, either from the appearance of the people or from 

 invitation, to bring back our luggage to that place. And 

 we learned, what was very provoking, that Don Grego- 

 rio was the great man of Copan ; the richest man, and 

 the petty tyrant ; and that it would be most unfortunate 

 to have a rupture with him, or even to let it be known 

 at the village that we were not well received at his 

 house. Reluctantly, but in the hope of making a more 

 favourable impression, we returned to the hacienda. 

 Mr. C. dismounted on the steps, and took a seat on the 

 piazza. I happened to dismount outside ; and, before 

 moving, took a survey of the party. The don sat on a 

 chair, with our detestable muleteer by his side, and a 

 half-concealed smile of derision on his face, talking of 

 idols," and looking at me. By this time eight or ten 

 men, sons, servants, and labourers, had come in from 

 their day's work, but not one offered to take my mule, 

 or made any of those demonstrations of civility which 

 are always shown to a welcome guest. The women 

 turned away their heads, as if they had been reproved 

 for receiving us ; and all the men, taking their cue from 



