110 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



sers, disdaining a shirt, his stomach swollen by a dis- 

 tressing liver complaint, and that and his livid face 

 clouded w^ith dirt. There w^as only room enough for 

 one hammock, and, in fact, the cross-sticks were not 

 strong enough to support two men. The pile of corn 

 which had been used down was just high and broad 

 enough for a bed ; by consent, I took this for my sleep- 

 ing-place, and Mr. Catherwood hung up his hammock ; 

 we were so glad at being relieved from the churlish 

 hospitality of Don Gregorio, and so near the ruins, that 

 all seemed snug and comfortable. 



After a noonday meal I mounted the luggage-mule^ 

 with only a halter to hold her, and, accompanied by 

 Augustin on foot, set out for Don Gregorio' s, for the 

 purpose of bringing over the luggage. The heavy rains 

 had swollen the river, and Augustin was obliged to strip 

 himself in order to ford it. Don Gregorio was not at 

 home ; and the muleteer, as usual, glad of a difficulty, 

 said that it was impossible to cross the river with a car- 

 go that day. Regularly, instead of helping us in our 

 little difficulties, he did all that he could to increase 

 them. He knew that, if we discharged him, we could 

 get no mules in Copan except by sending off two days' 

 journey ; that we had no one on whom we could rely 

 to send ; and that the delay would be at least a week. 

 Uncertain at what moment it might be advisable to 

 leave, and not wishing to be left destitute, I was com- 

 pelled to hire him to remain, at a price which was con- 

 sidered so exorbitant that it gave me a reputation for 

 having ''mucha plata," which, though it might be useful 

 at home, I did not covet at Copan ; and, afraid to trust 

 me, the rascal stipulated for daily payments. At that 

 time I was not acquainted with the cash system of busi- 

 ness prevailing in the country. The barbarians are not 



