162 INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



generally, by my handsome conduct in not going off 

 without paying.* 



My good understanding with the muleteer was of 

 short duration. At parting, Mr. C. and I had divided 

 our stock of plates, knives and forks, spoons, &c., and 

 Augustin had put my share in the basket which had 

 carried the whole, and these, being loose, made such a 

 clattering that it frightened the mule. The beast ran 

 away, setting us all olf together with a crashing noise, 

 till she threw herself among the bushes. We had a 

 scene of terrible confusion, and I escaped as fast as I 

 could from the hoarse and croaking curses of the mule- 

 teer. 



For some distance the road lay along the river. The 

 Copan has no storied associations, but the Guadalquiv- 

 er cannot be more beautiful. On each side were mount- 

 ains, and at every turn a new view. We crossed a 

 high range, and at four o'clock again came down upon 

 the river, which was here the boundary-line of the State 

 of Honduras. It was broad and rapid, deep, and bro- 

 ken by banks of sand and gravel. Fording it, I again 

 entered the State of Guatimala. There was no vil- 

 lage, not even a house in sight, and no difficulty about 

 passport. Late in the afternoon, ascending a little em- 

 inence, I saw a large field with stone fences, and bars, 

 and cattle-yard, that looked like a Westchester farm. 

 We entered a gate, and rode up through a fine park to 

 a long, low, substantial-looking hacienda. It was the 

 house of Don Clementino, whom I knew to be the kins- 

 man of Don Gregorio, and the one of all others I would 



* On Mr. Catherwood's second visit, finding the rancho of Don Miguel desert- 

 ed, he rode to Don Gregorio's. The don had in the mean time been to Esqui- 

 pulas, and learned our character from the cura ; and it is due to him to say, that he 

 received Mr. C. kindly, and made many inquiries after me. The rest of the famr 

 ily were as cordial as before. 



