CHURCH OF ESQUIPULAS. 



169 



sembled among the mountains to barter and pay hom- 

 age to our Lord of Esquipulas.'' 



The town contains a population of about fifteen hun- 

 dred Indians. There was one street nearly a mile long, 

 with mud houses on each side ; but most of the houses 

 were shut, being occupied only during the time of the 

 fair. At the head of this street, on elevated ground, 

 stood the great church. About half way to it we cross- 

 ed a bridge over a small stream, one of the sources of 

 the great Lempa. It was the first stream I had seen 

 that emptied into the Pacific Ocean, and I saluted it with 

 reverence. Ascending by a flight of massive stone 

 steps in front of the church, we reached a noble plat- 

 form a hundred and fifty feet broad, and paved with 

 bricks a foot square. The view from this platform of 

 the great plain and the high mountains around was 

 magnificent ; and the church, rising in solitary gran- 

 deur in a region of wildness and desolation, seemed al- 

 most the work of enchantment. The facade was rich 

 with stucco ornaments and figures of saints larger than 

 life ; at each angle was a high tower, and over the dome 

 a spire, rearing aloft in the air the crown of that once 

 proud power which wrested the greatest part of Amer- 

 ica from its rightful owners, ruled it for three centuries 

 with a rod of iron, and now has not within it a foot of 

 land or a subject to boast of. 



We entered the church by a lofty portal, rich in 

 sculptured ornaments. Inside was a nave with two 

 aisles, separated by rows of pilasters nine feet square, 

 and a lofty dome, guarded by angels with expanded 

 wings. On the walls were pictures, some drawn by ar- 

 tists of Guatimala, and others that had been brought 

 from Spain ; and the recesses were filled with statues, 

 some of which were admirably well executed. The 

 Vol. I.— Y 15 



