172 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



told me to feel his pulse. It was slow and feeble, and 

 seemed as if every beat would be the last ; but he said 

 it was always so ; and, rising suddenly, added that this 

 was the hour of his private devotions, and retired to 

 his room. I felt as if a good spirit had flitted away. 



My anxiety to reach Guatimala would not permit me 

 long to enjoy the cura's hospitality. I intended to dis- 

 charge my muleteer ; but, unable to replace him imme- 

 diately, and unwilling to lose another day, I was obliged 

 to retain him. The usual course was to leave Esqui- 

 pulas in the afternoon, and ride four leagues ; but, hav- 

 ing seven mules and only four cargoes, I determined to 

 make these four leagues and the next day's journey also 

 in one. Early in the morning I started. When I bade 

 farewell, the priest and the soldier stood side by side, 

 pictures of Christian humility and man's pride, and both 

 recommended me to God at parting. 



We crossed the plain ; the mountains of Esquipulas 

 seemed to have gained in grandeur ; in half an hour 

 commenced ascending the Mountain of Quezaltepeque, 

 thickly wooded, and, like that of Mico, muddy and full 

 of gullies and deep holes. Heavy clouds were hang- 

 ing over it, and as we ascended it rained hard ; but be- 

 fore reaching the top the clouds were lifted, the sun 

 shone, and the plain of Esquipulas, with the great 

 Sierra behind, covered with lofty pines, and clouds 

 chasing each other over its sides, all blended together, 

 made one of the grandest spectacles I ever beheld ; and 

 the great church still presented itself for the farewell 

 view of the pilgrim. But the gleam of sunshine did not 

 last long, and again the rain poured ; for a while I had 

 great satisfaction in seeing the muleteer drenched and 

 hearing him grumble ; but an unaccountable fit of good- 

 humour came over me, and I lent him my bear's skin 



