188 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



which was white, and trodden hard by caravans of 

 mules. We descended to the village, and crossed the 

 bridge, which was laid on a stone arch, thrown across 

 a ravine with a cataract foaming through it ; at this 

 point we were completely encircled by mountains, wild 

 to sublimity, and reminding me of some of the finest 

 parts of Switzerland. On the other side of the bridge 

 we commenced ascending another mountain. The 

 road was winding, and, when very high up, the view of 

 the village and bridge at the immense distance below 

 was surpassingly fine. Descending a short distance, 

 we passed a village of huts, situated on the ridge of the 

 mountain, commanding on both sides a view of an ex- 

 tensive valley four or five thousand feet below us. 

 Continuing on this magnificent ridge, we descended 

 upon a table of rich land, and saw a gate opening into 

 grounds which reminded me of park scenery in Eng- 

 land, undulating, and ornamented with trees. In the 

 midst of this stood the hacienda of San Jose, a long, 

 low stone building, with a corridor in front ; it was one 

 of those situations which, when least expected, touch a 

 tender chord, call up cherished associations, make a 

 traveller feel as though he could linger around it for- 

 ever, and particularly welcome to us, as we had not 

 breakfasted. 



It was a hacienda de ganados, or cattle-hacienda, 

 and had hundreds of cattle roaming over it ; but all 

 that it could give us to eat was eggs, tortillas, and 

 beans softened in hot water ; the last being about equal 

 to a basket of fresh chips. This over, we made a last 

 push for Guatimala. The road lay over a table of land, 

 green and rich as a European lawn, ornamented with 

 trees, and with features of scenery peculiarly English ; 

 muleteers who had left the city at midnight, and had al- 



