190 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



while I gazed the golden hues disappeared, and the 

 glory of the scene was gone. 



Aiigustin came along with his poor horse hobbling 

 after him, and a pistol in his hand. He had been told 

 on the way that Carr era's soldiers were riotous, and 

 that there were many ladrones about the suburbs of the 

 city, and he was in the humour to fire upon any one 

 who asked a question. I made him put up his pistols, 

 and we both mounted. An immense ravine was still 

 between us and the city. It was very dark when we 

 reached the bottom of this ravine, and we were almost 

 trodden down by a caravan of loaded mules coming out. 

 Rising on the other side to the top, we entered the out- 

 er gate, still a mile and a half from Guatimala. Inside 

 were miserable huts, with large fires before them, sur- 

 rounded by groups of drunken Indians and vagabond 

 soldiers, firing their muskets at random in the air. Au- 

 gustin told me. to spur ; but his poor horse could not 

 keep up, and we were obliged to move on at a walk. 

 As yet I did not know where to stop ; there was no ho- ' 

 tel in Guatimala. What's the use of a hotel in Guati- 

 mala ? Who ever goes to Guatimala ? was the answer 

 of a gentleman of that place to my inquiries on this sub- 

 ject. I had several letters of introduction, and one 

 was to Mr. Hall, the English vice-consul ; and, fortu- 

 nately, resolved to throw myself upon his hospitality. 



We picked up a ragged Indian, who undertook to 

 conduct us to his house, and under his guidance enter- 

 ed the city at the foot of a long straight street. My 

 country-bred mule seemed astonished at the sight of so 

 many houses, and would not cross the gutters, which 

 were wide, and in the middle of the street. In spurring 

 her over one, she gave a leap that, after her hard jour- 

 ney, made me proud of her ; but she broke her bridle, 



