INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



labour and money toward getting it up, and he is most 

 honoured who is allowed the most important part in it. 

 This was a rich village, at which all the muleteers of 

 Guatimala lived; and nowhere had I seen an Indian 

 procession so imposing. The church stood on an ele- 

 vation at the head of the plaza, its whole facade rich in 

 ornaments illuminated by the light of torches ; and the 

 large platform and the steps were thronged with women 

 in white. A space was cleared in the middle before 

 the great door, and with a loud chant the procession 

 passed out of the doorway. First came the alcalde and 

 his alguazils, all Indians, with rods of office in one hand 

 and lighted wax candles, six or eight feet long, in the 

 other ; then a set of devils, not as playful as the devils 

 of Guatimala, but more hideous, and probably better 

 likenesses, according to the notions of the Indians ; then 

 came, borne aloft by Indians, a large silver cross, richly 

 chased and ornamented, and followed by the curate, 

 with a silken canopy held over his head on the ends of 

 long poles borne by Indians. As the cross advanced 

 all fell on their knees, and a stranger would have been 

 thought guilty of an insult upon their holy religion who 

 omitted conforming to this ceremony. Then came fig- 

 ures of saints larger than life, borne on the shoulders 

 of Indians ; and then a figure of the Virgin, gorgeously 

 dressed, her gown glittering with spangles. Then fol- 

 lowed a long procession of Indian w^omen dressed in 

 costume, with a thick red cord twisted in the hair, so as 

 to look like a turban, all carrying lighted candles. The 

 procession passed through the illuminated streets, under 

 the arches, and stopping from time to time before the 

 altars, made the tour of the village, and in about an 

 hour, with a loud chant, ascended the steps of the 

 church. Its re-entry was announced by a discharge of 



