INCIDENTS OP TRAVEL. 



before with the rope over the shoulders. At half past 

 ten we were above the region of forest, and came out 

 upon the open side of the volcano. There were stiU 

 scattering trees, long grass, and a great variety of cu- 

 rious plants and flowers, furnishing rich materials for 

 the botanist. Among them was a plant with a red 

 flower, called the arbol de las manitas, or hand-plant, 

 but more like a monkey's paw, growing to the height 

 of thirty or forty feet, the inside a light vermilion col- 

 our, and outside vermilion with stripes of yellow. My 

 companion, tired with the toil of ascending, even with 

 the aid of the rope, at length mounted an Indian's 

 shoulders. I was obliged to stop every two or three 

 minutes, and my rests were about equal to the actual 

 time of walking. The great difficulty was on account 

 of the wet and mud, which, in ascending, made us lose 

 part of every step. It was so slippery that, even with 

 the staff", and the assistance of branches of trees and 

 bushes, it was difficult to keep from falling. About 

 half an hour before reaching the top, and perhaps one 

 thousand or fifteen hundred feet from it, the trees be- 

 came scarce, and seemed blasted by lightning or with- 

 ered by cold. The clouds gathered thicker than before, 

 and I lost all hope of a clear day. At half an hour be- 

 fore twelve we reached the top and descended into the 

 crater. A whirlwind of cloud and vapour was sweep- 

 ing around it. We were in a perspiration ; our clothes 

 were saturated with rain and mud ; and in a few mo- 

 ments the cold penetrated our very bones. We attempt- 

 ed to build a fire, but the sticks and leaves were wet, 

 and would not burn. For a few moments we raised a 

 feeble flame, and all crouched around it ; but a sprink- 

 ling of rain came down, just enough to put it out. We 

 could see nothing, and the shivering Indians begged me 



