PORT OP ISTAPA. 



289 



feared the result of the war, a change of administra- 

 tion, and being turned out of office ! 



Toward evening, rested and refreshed, I walked out 

 upon the shore. The port is an open roadstead, with- 

 out bay, headland, rock, or reef, or anything whatever 

 to distinguish it from the line of the coast. There is 

 no light at night, and vessels at sea take their bearings 

 from the great volcanoes of the Antigua, more than six- 

 ty miles inland. A buoy was anchored outside of the 

 breakers, with a cable attached, and under the sheds 

 were three large launches for embarking and disem- 

 barking cargoes. The ship, which was from Bordeaux, 

 lay off more than a mile from the shore. Her boat had 

 landed the supercargo and passengers, since which she 

 had had no communication with the land, and seemed 

 proudly independent of so desolate a place. Behind 

 the sandbar were a few Indian huts, and Indians nearly 

 naked were sitting by me on the shore. Yet this deso- 

 late place was once the focus of ambitious hopes, high 

 aspirations, lust of power and gold, and romantic ad- 

 venture. Here Alvarado fitted out his armament, and 

 embarked with his followers to dispute with Pizarro 

 the^riches of Peru. The sun was sinking, and the red 

 globe touched the ocean ; clouds were visible on its 

 face, and when it disappeared, ocean and land were il- 

 luminated with a ruddy haze. I returned to the hut 

 and threw myself into my hammock. Could it be that 

 I was again so far from home, and that these were the 

 waves of the great Southern Ocean breaking on my 

 ears? 



Vol. I.— O o 25 



