293 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



with bushes, and in a ravine reached the Michetoya 

 E-iver, which I had crossed at Istapa. It was narrow 

 and rapid, breaking wildly over a stony bed, with a 

 high mountain on the opposite side. Following it, we 

 reached the cataract, consisting of four streams sep- 

 arated by granite rock, partly concealed by bushes, 

 and precipated from a height of about two hundred feet, 

 forming with the wild scenery around a striking and ro- 

 mantic view. A little below it were a sugar-mill work- 

 ed by water, and an uncommonly fine hacienda, which 

 commanded a view of the falls, and at which I was 

 very much disposed to pass the night. The major-do- 

 mo, a black man, was somewhat surprised at my visit ; 

 but when he learned that I did not come to see the mill, 

 but only the falls, he seemed to suspect that I was no 

 better than I should be ; and when I asked him if I 

 could reach San Cristoval before dark, he answered 

 that I could if I started immediately. This was not 

 exactly an invitation to stay, and I left him. It shows 

 the want of curiosity and indolence of the people, that, 

 though these falls areibut a pleasant afternoon's ride 

 from Escuintla, which for two months is thronged with 

 visiters from Guatimala, nobody ever visits them. 



Hurrying back by the same wild path, we reached 

 the main road, and, as it was late, I hired my guide to 

 go on with me to San Cristoval. We passed through 

 the village of San Pedro, which was a collection of 

 miserable huts, with an estanco or place for the sale of 

 agua ardiente, and thronged with half-intoxicated In- 

 dians. As we advanced, clouds began to gather around 

 the mountains, and there was every appearance of heavy 

 rain. I had no cloak or greatcoat, and, being particu- 

 larly apprehensive of fevers and rheumatisms, after ri- 

 ding about a mile I returned to San Pedro. The most 



