308 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



would do right if he knew how. They who undertake 

 to guide him have a fearful responsibility. The service 

 ended, a way was cleared through the crowd. Carrera, 

 accompanied by the priests and the chief of the state, 

 awkward in his movements, with his eyes fixed on the 

 ground, or with furtive glances, as if ill at ease in being 

 an object of so much attention, walked down the aisle. 

 A thousand ferocious-looking soldiers were drawn up 

 before the door. A wild burst of music greeted him, 

 and the faces of the men glowed with devotion to their 

 chief. A broad banner was unfurled, with stripes of 

 black and red, a device of a death's head and legs in 

 the centre, and on one side the words " Viva la reli- 

 gion I" and on the other "Paz o muerte a los Liber- 

 ales !" Carrera placed himself at their head, and with 

 Rivera Paz by his side, and the fearful banner float- 

 ing in the air, and wild and thrilling music, and the 

 stillness of death around, they escorted the chief of the 

 state to his house. How different from Newyear's Day 

 at home ! 



Fanatic as I knew the people to be in religion, and 

 violent in political animosities, I did not believe that such 

 an outrage would be countenanced as flaunting in the 

 plaza of the capital a banner linking together the support 

 of religion and the death or submission of the Liberal 

 party. Afterward, in a conversation with the chief of 

 the state, I referred to this banner. He had not noticed 

 it, but thought that the last clause was " Paz o muerte 

 a los qui no lo quieron^'^ "to those who do not wish it.'* 

 This does not alter its atrocious character, and only 

 adds to fanaticism what it takes from party spirit. I 

 think, however, that I am right ; for on the return of the 

 soldiers to the plaza, Mr. C. and I followed it, till, as 

 we thought, the standard-bearer contracted its folds ex-» 



